Kinky Crafts

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Making your own Femdom/ BDSM toys

Here are a few items you can make easily and inexpensively for yourself. Maybe you want to be able to construct some toys instead of carrying things with you when you travel, or maybe you like the idea of using things you’ve made on someone. Either way, here are seven quick ideas for toys you can make yourself from easy obtainable materials. Each of the materials lists tells you what you need to make one of them, but you can make as many as you want the same way.


Bubblewrap Dildo

Materials List:

  • non-lubricated condom(s)
  • some bubblewrap, approximately 8 x10 sheets
  • some duct tape (only need a little)

Construction Details:

First, take the bubblewrap and roll it up (bubble side out for more sensations). Now take the condom and unroll it over the bubblewrap tube you made. Finally, use a little duct tape to seal the condom and you have an instant dildo. Or, if you want to use two condoms, you can skip sealing the first one and just slip the second one over the open end of the first condom now and then roll it down before sealing it with a little duct tape.

Play Tip:

Tell your partner to try to pop as many bubbles as they can (without using their hands of course).


Simple spreader bar

materials List:

  • wooden dowel rod, approximately 1 x24
  • three screw eyes, #6 size

Construction Details:

If you happen to have a drill you can make this easier by pre-drilling a hole in each end of the dowel rod and one hole in the middle. But if you don’t have a drill it’s easy enough to just attach the screw eyes by hand. One goes in each end of the dowel rod, and one goes in the middle of the rod.

Play Tips:

Ankle or wrist cuffs or other restraints can be attached to the eyes in the ends of the dowel rod. The middle eye and some rope or chain can be used to secure the rod to the head- or footboard of a bed, to a wall, or to the ceiling if you have an attachment point there. [Note: do not use for suspension, a metal spreader bar is suggested for any real weight-bearing play.]


Golfball Gag

Materials List:

  • practice golfball, plastic, with holes
  • piece of leather thong, approximately 24
  • emery board

Construction Details:

First, take the emery board and work on the rough edges where the two halves of the golf ball were joined. (Remember it’s going in someone’s mouth and you don’t want to cut their lips.) Then pass the leather lace through two holes on opposing sides of the ball. Knot the lace on each side of the ball to keep it centered on the lace.

Play Tips:

The ball goes in the mouth, the lace ties behind the head. The holes in the ball allow for breathing, drooling, and some grunting and screaming sounds to escape. Since your partner won’t as easily be able to use a safeword (if you use them), you’ll need to set up a safe signal instead.


Bootlace Whip

Materials List

  • handful of bootlaces, or the plastic lacing used for lanyards
  • roll of duct tape

Construction Details

Take the bootlaces and fold them in half. If you’re using the plastic lacing, cut them into lengths about 3 feet long and then fold those in half. Wrap duct tape around the folded section to make a handle for the whip.

Play Tips

With a variety of plastic lacing colors and some colored duct tape you can make a pretty attractive whip. But remember that this is not a gentle whip, and can be used to cause sharp though not severe pain (depending on where it’s used). You can also try wetting the laces before use to add more weight to the tails.


Frayed Rope Flogger

Materials List:

  • three feet of soft nylon rope
  • popsicle stick
  • piece of leather thong, approximately 24
  • Super Glue

Construction Details:

Take the rope and fold it in half with the popsicle stick lengthwise in the middle. Now put some Super Glue on the end of the leather thong. What you want to do is wrap the leather thong around the folded rope and popsicle stick to make a handle for the flogger. Start by wrapping over the end with the Super Glue on it, then finish by adding some glue to the other end and tucking it under the wraps. When you’re done just unravel the rope to create the flogger tails.

Play Tips:

While this isn’t a very painful flogger, it’s good for warming up someone before a heavier flogging or for bringing someone back down after one. The tails can tangle pretty easily, so tie a knot in them when not in use to keep them under control (hitting them with a little spray Static Guard will help with that too).


Clothespin Zipper

Materials List:

  • six to eight clothespins (or more)
  • silk cord, or plastic or leather lace, 24 (or more)

Construction Details:

This zipper can be made a couple of ways. The traditional way is to pass the cord or lace through the metal spring in each clothespin and knot the cord on each side of each clothespin. This gives you a reusable zipper that stays together for next time. The other way to make a zipper is to simply clamp each clothespin over the cord. While there is nothing keeping the clothespins on the cord, they will still all pull off at once.

Play Tips:

Make these with sets of different sized clothespins. You can string a lot of the little tiny ones on a cord to torment places where the big clothespins don’t work as well. Tie several strings to one control cord and pull that one to remove all the sets at once. Clips and clamps


Black Jack Cane

Materials List:

  • some clear vinyl tubing, 1/4 or 1/2 inside diameter, 24 long
  • two to four erasers from the ends of pencils
  • big handful of BBs (copper, steel or both)
  • Super Glue
  • roll of duct tape

Construction Details:

First put some Super Glue inside one end of the vinyl tubing. Now stuff one or two erasers inside the tube to seal that end. Trim the eraser even with the end of the tube. Turn the tube around and pour the BBs into the other end, almost filling the tube. (Twirl a piece of paper into a funnel shape to make pouring them in easier.) Put a little Super Glue inside this end of the tube too. And now stuff an eraser or two into this end, trimming it even with the tube end again. Wrap as much duct tape as you want around one end of the tube to make a handle for the cane.

Play Tips:

Depending on the diameter of the tube you’ll have either a stingier or a thuddier cane. If you use both steel and copper BBs you can add them in layers for a nice visual effect in the clear tubing. Add colored duct tape for a more custom touch. You can also fold the tube in half and duct tape the whole length of it to create a nice thuddy blackjack.

Resource Article : MissBonnie collarNcuffs.com © 2006

Clips, clamps, and pins

Table of Contents

..these are a few of my favorite Femdom things…

Imagine being in the depth of a terrific BDSM scene with your partner. Now, imagine the laundry bag full of clothes pegs/pins. “What?” You say! Think about it, why not take common household items and use them in an erotic encounter? Those cheap metal paper clips with the little miniature handles…a handful of colorful plastic or wooden clothespins…just imagine all the erotic spots you could use a dozen or two or three of those adorable and inexpensive miniature craft clothespins.

First and foremost, the basis of all BDSM play is ‘Safe, Sane and Consensual’. It is generally the Top’s responsibility to maintain safety during a scene, but, in my opinion, it is equally up to the submissive or bottom, to know and understand different play styles and safety considerations, before consenting to a scene. Now, let’s talk about safety!

Frequently, clothespins and clamps are used primarily on the breasts area, particularly on nipples. Other parts of the body are also erogenous and include, inner thighs, the webbing between toes and fingers, scrotum, and along the shaft of a penis. Clothespins make interesting earrings, on males, and with care, and can be used on any part of the body where you can ‘pinch’ up a fold of skin for the clamps and clothespins to grab. Here is the crux of the safety issue, in a nutshell: Clips, clamps and clothespins create the erotic sensations by cutting off the circulation! When left in place too long, or placed where they can crush or damage tissue and internal structures, such as the delicate blood vessels of the penile shaft, watch out! You have just managed to create a medical emergency for your submissive.

Selecting your ‘torture’ toys carefully is a step you can take to alleviate at least some of the danger involved in clamping human body parts and dangle bits.

Types of Clamping Toys

Wooden Clothespins

– By far, the most common clamping toys used in the BDSM and Femdom community. These are so inexpensive and readily available, you can easily toss them in the trash when you are finished with a scene, rather than trying to sterilize and re-use them. Wooden clothespins come in many sizes and clamping strength, so take your time and choose the right ones for your scene.

clipped penis
clipped penis of one MissBs favorite people

Plastic Clothespins

– Also, inexpensive and come in a variety of sizes (try the little doll size clothespins from the toy store for a real ouch and owww sensation!). Generally, the spring is not quite as strong on plastic clothespins as you find on quality wooden clothespins, but test them on yourself first, anyway. Plastic clothespins are much easier to sterilize than wooden ones. Just boil them in a pot of water for 3-5 minutes at a rolling boil, then strain out the water with a colander, and leave them to dry thoroughly before repacking them in your toy bag.

Alligator Clips

– Alligator are probably the most severe type of readily available clamping toy. They can be purchased at Auto supply stores, craft stores and electronic supply stores. They have teensy little painful teeth lining the jaws, and often have a ring or loop that you can attach weights of different sizes on for additional erotic torture. Be sure when sterilizing metal of any kind, to let it dry thoroughly before packing, or you will have a bag full of rust the next time you open your toy bag. Use a hairdryer to speed the drying process.

– I personally never recommend the heavier paperclips bought at office supply stores. They have far too much ‘pinch’ to play safely, especially for a first-time clamping scene. Medical clamps, called ‘forceps’ are available in stainless steel and a variety of shapes and sizes. Generally, stainless steel forceps last forever and are sterilized by boiling them. They also make a great part of any Medical Scene! Finally, there are the great (and often decorative!) clamps you can purchase at any adult toy store, and even online.

Basic Safety Reminders

• Watch the placement! Never clamp any piece of flesh near to dense blood vessels, to avoid damaging nerves, or internal structures, such as the corpus cavernosum and corpus spongiosum of the penis, and tissues of the clitoral hood in women. Any damage to these structures can be permanent and cause lifelong pain and suffering.

Watch the clock! Don’t allow any clamping device to remain in place longer than 20 minutes maximum! The whole idea of clamping is creating condensed erotic pain when the blood flow starts recirculating back into the unclamped tissues. Do not allow the clamps to cause irreparable damage!

Watch Cleanliness! Never use any clip, clamp or clothespin on more than one submissive, without sterilizing the pieces thoroughly! And, NEVER switch back and forth between anal play and any other orifice with ANY toy.

With good planning, good communication, and adequate time for a session, your BDSM Femdom Clothespin Scene can be amazingly fun for everyone. Enjoy the exploration, and use your head. Your partner will appreciate it, and if you want to play clamping games again with them, you will too! Play safe!

Resource Article : MissBonnie and MissBitch © collarncuffs.com

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CLOTHESPINS

Wood versus plastic

Wooden clothespins are a bit kinder and have less tendency to abrade, thus I would suggest starting with them. Plastic clothespins tend to have much smaller ribbed gripping surfaces, and a ‘feel’ much stronger than the equivalent wooden ones. Extremely small plastic clothespins are very nasty indeed, and many may be used in the same area for greater intensity These also work well for CBT.

Wooden clothespins are available in several qualities, with the older, thicker ones being a bit better IMHO, and the thin ones more likely to splinter or have sharp edges. As one may purchase 50 of these for perhaps $4 American, these rank among least expensive of toys, and among the most versatile. Almost anything one may do with fingertip squeezing may be done with clothespins, and several things that cannot be accomplished with one’s fingers may easily be done with these tiny household beauties. Of course, this does leave your hands free for other activities….

Unmodified, most wooden clothespins of quality grip with between 4 and 6 pounds of pressure over an area of 3/16 X 1/2 inches. This is too much for some, and not enough for others. The grip is best increased by wrapping the clamping end with elastic bands, and decreased in several ways. The simplest is by weakening the springs by clamping something that requires the clothespin to be open to its limit for several days. This will reduce the clamping pressure by several pounds, dependent on the initial strength of the spring, the width of the opening, and the length of time one allows for stretching. Carefully pulling the jaws wider than they would normally travel will stretch the spring quickly, but this is harder to control.

Clamping Tightness [“too hard!”, “too soft!”, “just right!”]

Wrapping elastic bands around the legs of the clothespin will resist the tension of the spring and weaken the clamping force without permanently weakening the spring.

If you are willing to spend a bit more time, drill straight through both legs of the clothespin legs about one third from the end and thread a bolt through the holes, tightening a wing nut on the bolt will allow for wonderfully precise changes in clamping pressure, since the bolt-nut combination adjustably limits the travel of the legs. It is often best to drill a larger hole or even a slot in one leg for ease of adjustment. This requires perhaps 2 minutes per clothespin and is well worth the time, as the pressure may be slowly increased as ability to enjoy the sensation improves. Weights may be hung off of the clothespin as well by hooks or cords attached to such holes and hardware.

‘Standard’ Techniques [suggestions for beginning and advancing]

One classical place to begin with clothespins is the nipple, but there are many possible variations to this alone. The first grip recommended most often is with the clothespin pointing straight onto the nipple, not from the side, gripping the base of the nipple, not the tip, and perhaps a bit of areola as well. This does not have the same sort of ‘bite’ as grasping the nipple alone may, and often does wonderful things for sensitivity without causing severe pain. It is best to start with a rather weak clamping pressure and work upwards, and if you are just beginning, try not to leave the pins on for too long [start with what he can endure, and eventually work up to perhaps twenty minutes

I prefer not to leave them on longer than this, your mileage many vary. I like shorter times as I’m assured of no damage and can play again another day.

The longer the clamping time, the more fierce the sensation caused by removing the pressure. The increased sensitivity afterwards may last from minutes to many hours, depending on the person, the clamping force and time; and several things might be done in this period to use that sensitivity to advantage [beating with the proverbial ‘wet noodle’ or even a featherduster is quite effective]. Ice applied immediately after removing the clothespin may reduce the length and severity of the sensation if that is desired. You might try putting the clothespin on sideways, with the nipple centered in the the hole in the clamping area. If you do this far enough back on the nipple base or areola, the tip of a large nipple will remain exposed for other things, such as ice, nibbling, or smaller clips and clamps.

You might try clamping the nipple only, or work gradually out from the areola as his ability to enjoy more increases. Tapping or lightly brushing the tips of attached clothespins is effective, and a light vibrator may also be used if taped to the legs of the clothespin.

One simple device works nicely for both nipples at once on all but the smallest female breasts. Take two clothespins and glue the outsides of the legs together with a slight overlap.

then use the clamping ends to grasp both nipples from the sides at once. The pull will vary depending on breast size, but some will be present, thus causing her to jiggle her breasts gently can be fun, and of course, this is often just the thing to add to tickling. Size differences may require an additional short piece of wood to link the pair together, length best found by experiment.

Several Dommes have mentioned pulling on clothespins or clips with strings, chains or cords. The nipple itself may also be encircled by a thin cord or thread, I have used unwaxed dental floss to good effect. Avoid slipknots for the obvious reason that they might tighten too far in use.

peg zipper

Pulling off a clothespin is more painful than squeezing the legs to remove it gently, and is the basis for several devices below. Again, the longer one leaves them attached, the stronger the result. It is also possible to flick off clothespins with a flogger or some other striking device, and combining the two is an interesting way to add some bright ‘explosions’ to the sensations of a ‘standard’ flogging without switching instruments or striking harder. When doing this near the front of the body, some form of eye protection is needed, a heavy blindfold will serve nicely.

Other places you might wish to try

Many areas of the body might do well with a bit of clamping either for sensation or visual appeal. Other parts of the breast, and any portion of the torso and limbs where one may gather a bit of skin come immediately to mind. In view of the tiny expense, one might use many dozens at one time.

Specific classic variations include but are not limited to:

* a row, circle [or other sigil of your choice] on the belly or back the inner thigh or arm

* a belt of clothespins round the waist * small clothespins on the webbing of fingers and toes * the earlobe [the dangling legs of the clothspin brush the neck nicely] * behind the knees and inside the elbows * a circle round the thighs as a reminder to keep them spread

‘Zippers’ and other tailoring

Drill a hole through one leg of at least one dozen clothespins, thread them on a thong or cord, knotting them at small intervals, and you have created a zipper. One derivation for the name will become obvious the first time one tugs swiftly on one end of the cord and hears the sound made by the pins pulling off sensitive skin [there may be other sounds as well]. The spacing may vary, longer ones may be made, and double rows of 20 or so clothespins are common. The inside of the upper arm or thigh are rather traditional for these, but most areas of the body are available, one of my own favorites being the side of the body normally covered by the arms, after binding the arms over the head. Ticklish and sensitive.

A ‘tri-zipper’ is my own name for three of these single zippers with one end of each fastened to a central ring [a keyring will do, but try to find something a bit larger]. The ring is centered high on the belly, with the farthest pins attaching to the nipples and genitals’ perhaps with a bit of spiral towards the center of each region, and the nearest ones fastening to the skin near the center. The look of horrified anticipation as you grasp the ring and begin to pull slowly outwards, each pin popping off in turn as the three zipper lines move towards the most sensitive areas is not to be missed, while pulling faster often causes volumes of coloratura shrieking.

Modifying pins for more intense sensations

The simplest method is increasing the clamping force with one or more elastic bands round the clamping end, but there are several others.

Exceedingly nasty, as the clamping force now concentrates primarily on three small areas rather than the entire clamping area. Use this carefully, preferably with a fully adjustable clothespin as above, and make quite sure by testing on yourself first that the ends of the brads are NOT SHARP at all to avoid damage. Useful for those seeking more than a ‘regular’ clothespin may provide.

Several less extreme variations on the idea above are possible, all based on disassembling the clothespin, filing several grooves in the wooden clamping area, then reassembling the clothespin. Grooves and blunt ‘teeth’ aid in preventing slippage, and feel a bit more harsh than flat wood.

Removing perhaps one-half of the side of the clamping area with a saw or rasp provides two benefits, the same clamping pressure will be applied over a smaller area, and double the number of clothespin tips may fitted to the same bit of anatomy. Remember to round the edges slightly with sandpaper to avoid splinters or other inadvertent injury.

A design for testing the clamping force of clothespins

Tradition demands testing on the web of one’s hand, this is well and good for impromptu buying and to get a subjective feel for the actual sensation of a new design, but lacks precision and repeatability, qualities dear to the heart of any engineer. Some thinking and a bit of experimentation resulted in the following frame to directly and accurately measure clamping force in clothespins

Resource Article : MissBonnie © collarncuffs.com

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