Pervertible (frequently misspelt “pervertable”) is a term originally coined by David Stein to describe ordinary non-sexual objects, especially everyday household objects, that can be used sexually, particularly in Femdom or BDSM play such as spanking. Some objects become so commonly ‘perverted’ that manufacturers produce and market models designed for this ‘luxury’ market. As their products are often modified (safer, sexier, easier to handle, more painful, etc.) the objects cease to be true pervertibles.
Rationale in BDSM
As humiliation is often part of BDSM, the choice of the object may be intentionally humiliating in itself, as the victim is thus associated with a very young child (e.g. diapers), with a lowlife, or with a non-person, such as an animal (e.g. a fly swatter) or even filth (e.g. a toilet brush).
The same subjective effect can also be obtained by ‘perverting’ the submissive’s body as an object, e.g. as furniture to sit or rest the dominant’s feet or rear on, storing objects in his/her underwear or orifices (mainly oral and anal) or even parking a bike between his/her buttocks. Such methods are not uncommon in hazing either.
Common Pervertibles
Spanking implements:
Not counting instruments normally designed for utilitarian hits, such as fly whisks, some of which originally were used for discipline (e.g. swagger stick) nor objects called club, stick, rod, whip etcetera; these include: bamboo skewers belts books newspaper, magazine etc. (rolled up) brooms (as stick or also as a birch if made of branches) brushes, especially bath brush, hairbrush and curry comb; both sides may be used if the hairs or spikes are firm to hard carpet beater or rug duster clothes pegs flails pointing stick, ruler & yardstick table tennis paddles, cricket bat and various sports rackets hockey sticks oars pokers ropes, cords and cables (for whipping; also for tying) shaving strap shoes, boots, golf shoes and other cleats and footware (the plimsoll/thong/flip flops is a classic) spoon, spatula, whisk, ladle and other cooking utensils such as the cutting board Sweat Scrapers towels (especially wet, to increase the weight) Plant materials such as nettles or certain vines Almost any object can be used, baring those too frail or cumbersome. Often the choice is guided by convenience (e.g. availability) or fitting into role play, such as objects associated with various professions or fetishism.
Other teasing and pain infliction:
candles ( wax play) plastic wrap (mummification) ice cubes knives bandannas as blindfolds or ( gags use) snakebite kits (provide suction) mentholated rubs feathers or feather dusters (for tickling; the second also as stick) gloves and oven mitts lighters, matches, etc. Pegs, clothes pins and clamps (nipples, loose flesh) medical equipment nails, pins and needles banjo picks Ball lock rasps various tools edibles, such as whipped cream, peppers, fruits, vegetables, Ginger etc. cooking oils and shortenings (for massaging) vibrating devices, even as remote as a washing machine especially large, solid objects are also used passively: to tie the victim onto, e.g. a vaulting horse or vault buck, a sawhorse etc. as an improvised punishment horse, a barrel etc. to be bent over for the victim to lie upon, as chair, table, bed, etc. rubber bands and other constructive items
key_ring_chain (chain) – A kinky easy craft idea to let others know your kinky side. Pervertibles – I can’t afford BDSM toys, what can I do ? Craft Ideas – some times you want something a little more personal to use, what better than a play item you constructed. Craft Ideas 2 – Embarrassed to purchase in a sex shop, no credit card to buy online (save money too) … perfect for you! Shrews fiddle – Building plans for a shrews fiddle. Saw horse – Building plans for a Femdom horse. Cane building – Building instructions to making canes for BDSM play Rubber cat of 9 – How to make a rubber cat of nine tails. Bugle Cord– (Video Tutorial) How to Make a Military Bugle Cord TKB Rope Flogger– (Video Tutorial) How to Make a Rope Flogger Rope Web – (Video Tutorial) How to Build a Rope Web by TKB Rope Bit Gag – (Video Tutorial) The Bit Gag by TKB Spreader Bar – (Video Tutorial) How to Rope Wrap a Spreader Bar by Two Knotty Boys Rope Collar – (Video Tutorial) collar with Rope by Two Knotty Boys Rope ladder – (Video Tutorial) Make a rope ladder Rope Blindfold– (Video Tutorial) How to make a Rope Blindfold by Two Knotty Boys. Fist ball gag – (Video Tutorial) Monkey fist ball gag. Rope whip – (Video Tutorial) How to make a rope whip Ball Gag – (Video Tutorial) Bondage Toys – Making a Ball Gag Bit Gag – (Video Tutorial) Bondage Toys – Making a Rope Bit Gag Kitchen kink – Home made ‘sex toys’ for Femdom online activities.repeated in relationship real time and online
Here are a few items you can make easily and inexpensively for yourself. Maybe you want to be able to construct some toys instead of carrying things with you when you travel, or maybe you like the idea of using things you’ve made on someone. Either way, here are seven quick ideas for toys you can make yourself from easy obtainable materials. Each of the materials lists tells you what you need to make one of them, but you can make as many as you want the same way.
Bubblewrap Dildo
Materials List:
non-lubricated condom(s)
some bubblewrap, approximately 8 x10 sheets
some duct tape (only need a little)
Construction Details:
First, take the bubblewrap and roll it up (bubble side out for more sensations). Now take the condom and unroll it over the bubblewrap tube you made. Finally, use a little duct tape to seal the condom and you have an instant dildo. Or, if you want to use two condoms, you can skip sealing the first one and just slip the second one over the open end of the first condom now and then roll it down before sealing it with a little duct tape.
Play Tip:
Tell your partner to try to pop as many bubbles as they can (without using their hands of course).
Simple spreader bar
materials List:
wooden dowel rod, approximately 1 x24
three screw eyes, #6 size
Construction Details:
If you happen to have a drill you can make this easier by pre-drilling a hole in each end of the dowel rod and one hole in the middle. But if you don’t have a drill it’s easy enough to just attach the screw eyes by hand. One goes in each end of the dowel rod, and one goes in the middle of the rod.
Play Tips:
Ankle or wrist cuffs or other restraints can be attached to the eyes in the ends of the dowel rod. The middle eye and some rope or chain can be used to secure the rod to the head- or footboard of a bed, to a wall, or to the ceiling if you have an attachment point there. [Note: do not use for suspension, a metal spreader bar is suggested for any real weight-bearing play.]
Golfball Gag
Materials List:
practice golfball, plastic, with holes
piece of leather thong, approximately 24
emery board
Construction Details:
First, take the emery board and work on the rough edges where the two halves of the golf ball were joined. (Remember it’s going in someone’s mouth and you don’t want to cut their lips.) Then pass the leather lace through two holes on opposing sides of the ball. Knot the lace on each side of the ball to keep it centered on the lace.
Play Tips:
The ball goes in the mouth, the lace ties behind the head. The holes in the ball allow for breathing, drooling, and some grunting and screaming sounds to escape. Since your partner won’t as easily be able to use a safeword (if you use them), you’ll need to set up a safe signal instead.
Bootlace Whip
Materials List
handful of bootlaces, or the plastic lacing used for lanyards
roll of duct tape
Construction Details
Take the bootlaces and fold them in half. If you’re using the plastic lacing, cut them into lengths about 3 feet long and then fold those in half. Wrap duct tape around the folded section to make a handle for the whip.
Play Tips
With a variety of plastic lacing colors and some colored duct tape you can make a pretty attractive whip. But remember that this is not a gentle whip, and can be used to cause sharp though not severe pain (depending on where it’s used). You can also try wetting the laces before use to add more weight to the tails.
Frayed Rope Flogger
Materials List:
three feet of soft nylon rope
popsicle stick
piece of leather thong, approximately 24
Super Glue
Construction Details:
Take the rope and fold it in half with the popsicle stick lengthwise in the middle. Now put some Super Glue on the end of the leather thong. What you want to do is wrap the leather thong around the folded rope and popsicle stick to make a handle for the flogger. Start by wrapping over the end with the Super Glue on it, then finish by adding some glue to the other end and tucking it under the wraps. When you’re done just unravel the rope to create the flogger tails.
Play Tips:
While this isn’t a very painful flogger, it’s good for warming up someone before a heavier flogging or for bringing someone back down after one. The tails can tangle pretty easily, so tie a knot in them when not in use to keep them under control (hitting them with a little spray Static Guard will help with that too).
Clothespin Zipper
Materials List:
six to eight clothespins (or more)
silk cord, or plastic or leather lace, 24 (or more)
Construction Details:
This zipper can be made a couple of ways. The traditional way is to pass the cord or lace through the metal spring in each clothespin and knot the cord on each side of each clothespin. This gives you a reusable zipper that stays together for next time. The other way to make a zipper is to simply clamp each clothespin over the cord. While there is nothing keeping the clothespins on the cord, they will still all pull off at once.
Play Tips:
Make these with sets of different sized clothespins. You can string a lot of the little tiny ones on a cord to torment places where the big clothespins don’t work as well. Tie several strings to one control cord and pull that one to remove all the sets at once. Clips and clamps
Black Jack Cane
Materials List:
some clear vinyl tubing, 1/4 or 1/2 inside diameter, 24 long
two to four erasers from the ends of pencils
big handful of BBs (copper, steel or both)
Super Glue
roll of duct tape
Construction Details:
First put some Super Glue inside one end of the vinyl tubing. Now stuff one or two erasers inside the tube to seal that end. Trim the eraser even with the end of the tube. Turn the tube around and pour the BBs into the other end, almost filling the tube. (Twirl a piece of paper into a funnel shape to make pouring them in easier.) Put a little Super Glue inside this end of the tube too. And now stuff an eraser or two into this end, trimming it even with the tube end again. Wrap as much duct tape as you want around one end of the tube to make a handle for the cane.
Play Tips:
Depending on the diameter of the tube you’ll have either a stingier or a thuddier cane. If you use both steel and copper BBs you can add them in layers for a nice visual effect in the clear tubing. Add colored duct tape for a more custom touch. You can also fold the tube in half and duct tape the whole length of it to create a nice thuddy blackjack.
Canes have a sweet, sharp bite and are one of the most intense striking toys in BDSM Femdom. But most people would be surprised how easy and inexpensive they are to make. Here’s our process for making rattan canes. Although many people think canes are made out of bamboo, most BDSM folk use canes made from rattan. Bamboo can split into sharp splinters. Rattan is a reed that grows in China and Indonesia. It is relatively easy to find, because it is used to make furniture. Check your local Yellow Pages for furniture-making or caning supply stores. If you don’t have any nearby, you can order rattan over the Internet as well
canes
Traditional canes are made of rattan, a woody reed from the East Indies. It has a jointed stem that resembles bamboo, but is not hollow. Rattan is very tough and strong, and makes the most durable natural canes we know. Like bamboo, it comes in all sorts of diameters; traditional canes are about 8mm, but thicker and thinner ones are also useful. Rattan can sometimes be found at craft stores or Oriental basketwork shops. It is used to make wicker furniture, so a repairer of that might have a stock of it as well. Unfortunately, most of the cane-sized rattan that comes into this country (Australia) has been bent into coils, which warps and sometimes cracks it.
If you must deal with the coiled stuff, it should first be cut to length with a fine-toothed saw. Coping saws and hacksaws work well. A dressmaker’s tape is a handy way to measure along the coils. Obviously, you should discard cracked peices. Less obviously, your canes will be much more durable if the tip includes one of the joints of the stem. The convoluted grain in each joint resists splitting, as opposed to the very straight grain that runs for the foot or so between joints. A lot of the coiled rattan has been peeled and sanded, but the joints are still noticeable if you look and feel carefully. Cut the stem about a stem diameter to one side of the joint; this will become the tip of the cane. (The ends without joints included are fine for handles – the tips are what take the shock and strain.)
You can make the canes any length you like; People have different preferences when it comes to cane lengths. Remember that the longer the cane, the more whippy (and hard to control) I prefer 20-30 inches (50-80cm) as they are easier to aim and more convenient in close quarters. Long ones have more power, but can be awkward. The natural variations in your coil will probably give you several choices.
You can also cut the rattan to make double canes. A double cane is a length of rattan that has been bent back on itself, to make what looks something like a snowshoe frame or loop. These canes fit nicely onto a buttock, and are easier to transport. To make double canes, carefully bend the rattan back on itself, tie it in position, and soak it again. It may take multiple times of bending, tying, and soaking to get the shape you want. Don’t try to force the rattan to bend farther than it wants to, or you will end up with a kink–and not the good kind!
You can also bend just one end to make a shape similar to a walking or candy cane. We find this shape to be less practical, but some submissives strongly identify “cane” with this shape, so we always make a few of these. Rattan is sized via a number system. We find that sizes between 10 and 15 are most useful; to start with, I recommend ordering size 12, which is 3/8 inch or 9 mm in diameter. This will make a whippy cane with enough strength to stand up to fairly heavy use. Each tip needs to be rounded off; any kind of edge here will break skin far too easily. Coarse sandpaper works well, especially in a power sander of some kind. Hand sanding will also do, as will a fairly coarse metal file. Whatever you use, try for a smoothly rounded end. Now hand-sand the whole length of each cane with medium paper; try to remove the stray fibers you find sticking up from the wood. They are a nuisance during varnishing.
The cut pieces will have to be soaked and steamed to straighten them without breaking. We soak ours in the bathtub for a day or two, but any water will do. Don’t let them dry out. After soaking comes steaming and straightening. You will need some way of keeping the canes straight as they dry; we lay them in a series of grooves we routed into a plank, and then clamp another plank on top of them. You can also try shoving each one down a length of pipe; plastic water pipe won’t rust and stain the canes. (even come with screw on plastic caps)
When you have your straightening rig set up, boil a big kettle of water. Wrap the canes in a towel or two, lay them in the (drained) tub and pour some boiling water over them. Dose them every minute or so for a few minutes, and then unwrap them; the scalding will make them limp and easy to uncurl. (Dishwashing gloves help keep your fingers from scalding, too.) Quickly, before they can cool, bend them straight and put them in the jig. Put the jig in a dry place with good ventilation for five days Remove the canes and hang them up for air drying; we use clothespins/pegs on cords. Let the canes dry for a few days until they feel dry to the touch, but still whippy. The key to a useful, long-lasting cane is to preserve a bit of moisture inside. Once a cane is completely dried out, it will become brittle.
After a few days of air drying, brush them thoroughly with a coat marine varnish. Regular varnish is too stiff for canes–it tends to flake off after a while. Marine varnish is flexible and will completely seal the cane. Check boating supply stores or order it off the Web: Give each cane at least three coats; let each coat dry enough that you can sand off any lumps. Some newspapers on the floor under them will be a good ideas, since at least one of them will drip no matter how careful you are.
The handle end of each cane can be left as is, or a grip can be added for comfort or appearance. You can dip the handle ends in plastic tool dip – it will take several coats, and you can hang them from the same setup you used in the varnishing. The fumes of this stuff are truly nasty; be sure you have good ventilation. Less toxically, you can wrap the grips with cord or leather lacing, sew a scrap of leather or cloth around them, or cover them with tape. Bicycle handlebar tape makes a fine grip.
You can of course prepare other kinds of wooden rods this way – and avoid all the straightening hassle by picking ones that are straight to begin with. Bamboo is cheap and widely available, and also stiffer than rattan, which makes aiming easier. Bamboo, of course, is hollow and the tip must be made at a joint, just as described for rattan. Bamboo works fine for light to medium blows; heavy blows with it can be dangerous. Bamboo can split without warning, and the splits have edges like razors! Hardwood dowels from the hardware store can have the same problems. Avoid either of these materials for heavy canings.
Many other plants have canelike shoots. Forsythia is a very popular ornamental, and the older branches from the inside of the bush can make quite a reasonable cane. Prepare as you would rattan. They aren’t as durable, but the price is right, especially if rattan is hard to buy where you live. Apple trees develop suckers each year, especially upward from the top branches. These grow straight, to about the right length, and are pruned off in great numbers every year. They are quite tough and durable. The buds make rough little bumps along the shoot; they can be sanded off if they seem too harsh.
Some twigs, such as birch or willow, are fine for scenes but far too flexible to be considered or used as canes. Handling them is a whole different topic.
There are also synthetic canes, mostly plastics. Plastics are much denser than wood, so they hit harder and the stroke is more penetrating. They are very easy to clean, which is a good thing because the thinner ones break skin quite easily. There are shops in most large and medium cities that sell plastic supplies. There can be a confusing variety of materials there: Delrin, Lexan, and fiberglass are three kinds of rod that are tough enough to make good canes. Acrylic is not tough enough; I have broken several. If the clear look appeals to you, get Lexan. Sora, from San Francisco, makes some very nice Lexan canes, if you want to buy ready-made. If you prepare your own, you won’t need to varnish them, but be sure to remember to round and smooth the tip!
MissBitch & MissBonnie Hints and tips
we recently found a source of rattan by the devious method of trying the yellow pages. Now we where able to make 10 straight canes for the huge sum of $4.60. We think others in fairly large cities may well have equal success if they look, why fool around with dowels or garden stakes when the real thing is cheaper?
Indeed. When buying rattan, however, you can’t simply say, “Oh, I bought thirty feet, that means I can make ten canes!” Rattan has warps and knots and such in it. When we’re cutting canes, we probably discard about 50% of the raw material in order to get something that really balances well.
If you’re going to stain and varnish it – and there’s a lot of disagreement about whether canes should be coated – you can use pretty much any wood stain to stain it with. We finish ours with marine varnish, which takes a lot of work – it’s messy stuff, and it needs to dry overnight. Since we usually do about six coats of varnish, a cane isn’t exactly a quick-and-dirty toy for us. Polyurethane is much quicker because it’s fast-drying, but all polyurethane finishes have something of a tendency to flake, and this is really exacerbated when you’re dealing with a flexible cane. Be sure to have all your sanding done before you stain and varnish, and round the striking tip as well.
As noted before, marine varnish provides excellent sealing properties while maintaining flexibility. You will usually want to apply ‘at least’ two coats. We do each coat in two parts, so there is always a dry portion of the cane to attach the hanging string to. If you are only going to use the cane on one person, you can choose not to use varnish–but you will need to re-soak the cane frequently to maintain its moisture level. Varnishing seals in the moisture and provides a barrier to body fluids–rattan, as with all woods, is porous.
At this point, all you need is a willing submissive to try your new canes out on. Have fun!
