Category: Pervertibles & Craft ideas, Building Plans and Resources

Tools Needed:

• Jigsaw
• Drill
• Sandpaper
• PVA wood glue
• Paintbrush
• Hacksaw
• Staple Gun

Materials Required:

• Small padlock
• Eccentric latch
• 1“x12” Planed Pine
• 3/4“ screws
• Small can Dark Oak Stain

• 1 Pair of Barrel Hinges
• 1” Steel backflap hinge
• Strips of leather

Instructions:

Cut out two identical panels from the pine – see fig 1. for pattern. Finish the board with sandpaper. Be sure to remove any snags and splinters. Take extra time on the edges which the saw may leave jaggered.( Remember you will have a person in this shrew.)
Next, cut out the ‘chin rest’ and ‘machine head’ from the pine and sand smooth. You will need two identical ‘machine heads’ and two identical ‘chin rest’ pieces – see fig 2. for the ‘machine head’ pattern. Look at the picture to see how the ‘chin rest’ is shaped, and use your main body as a pattern for it.

Screw the ‘chin rest’s onto the main body of the fiddle (do this from below to hide the screw heads), this should bulk up the width on the bottom edge of the fiddle enough to easily accept the 1“ (25mm) Flapback Hinge.
Drill two holes into each ‘machine head’ (as shown in fig 2.) and screw two parts of the barrel hinges into the holes on each ‘machine head’. This will give the tuning key look. Now attach the two ‘machine heads’ into the cut outs on the main body. When you put the two halves together you should now have something that reasembles the end product. Varnish the two halves and allow to dry.

Cut some leather off cuts into squares and roll them up into cigar size tubes. Using the staple gun, line the wrist holes and neck hole with rolled up leather. This will make the wearing of the fiddle easier over prolonged periods.
Finally, fix the hinge to the back and attach the eccentric clasp to the front. I used a nice little brass padlock to secure it shut, this has the bonus of making a great clattering noise when the fiddle is moved on the wearer.

Article MissBonnie © CollarNcuffs.com

Materials:

• #2 pine or pressure-treated pine lumber
• (2“ x 6”, 2“ x 4”, 1“ x 4”, 1“ x 2” scrap pieces, etc.)
• 3/4“ plywood
• Table saw
• Battery-powered drill
• Phillips screwdriver bit
• Countersink
• 2-1/2” decking screws
• Finish nails
• Clamps
• Safety glasses and ear protection

When you custom-build a sawhorse, you can create one with the dimensions and features that best suit your needs. Don’t hesitate to experiment with the dimensions and materials.

Sawhorses may be made from almost any commonly available wood, from scrap lumber to expensive hardwood. The quality of wood should be based on the type of work it will be used for. Ordinary #2 pine is a good choice, but if you plan to use the sawhorses outdoors, choose rot-resistant pressure-treated pine, which is slightly more expensive.

Whenever working with power tools, wear protective eyeglasses and ear protection, and follow all the manufacturer’s safety recommendations. To build a sawhorse like ours, begin by cutting a 2“ by 6” to a length of 36“ for the sawhorse top. Bevel the top board to accommodate the sawhorse’s angled legs. Set your table saw at a 15-degree angle, and cut a slight bevel along the length of the board (figure M)

, then flip it over and do the same on the other side (figure N).

Cut four 32” legs from 2“ by 6” lumber. The legs should then be beveled to 15 degrees on each end–on top so that each leg will be flush with the top piece and on the bottom to give the sawhorse a firm footing (figure O).

Attach the legs to the beveled top with 2-1/2“ decking screws (figure P)

, which have good holding power and won’t rust if they get wet. Use clamps, or enlist the help of an assistant, to hold the legs in place while attaching them. Drill pilot holes so the screws will be less likely to split the wood. Drive the screws by hand or with a power drill and a Phillips-head screwdriver attachment. Attach the legs about 4” from the end of the top piece (figure Q).

Adding a tool shelf and braces makes the sawhorse both sturdier and more functional. A comfortable height for the shelf is around 14“ from the floor. Hold a 1” by 4“ board across the legs at a height of about 14”, and mark it with a pencil (figure R),

indicating how much to cut off and the angle for cutting. Following the pencil marks, cut off the excess wood. Once you’ve made the cut, check to be sure the fit is good (figure S),

then use the piece as a template for the next three braces.
Line up the first support with your pencil marks, and clamp it in place at both ends (figure T)

to hold it while you attach it. Drill pilot holes, then secure the support by driving 1-1/2“ screws. Repeat the process for the other braces. Once all four braces are in place, you can add the tool shelf. Cut a piece of plywood that will fit between the legs and rest atop the four braces (figure U) .

Secure the shelf with finish nails. To make the shelf more useful, add a 1” by 2“ lip to two of the sides (figure V)

to prevent tools from vibrating off as you work. Leaving the ends open makes it easy to blow or brush off sawdust that falls onto the shelf. For a more useful work surface, add a top made of 3/4” plywood (figure W).

The width of the top will vary according to its use, but it’s best to make its length the same as that of the sawhorse so the top is supported at both ends. In this example, the plywood is cut to 9“ by 36”, leaving a small overhang on the sides.
Attach the top with screws, which hold better than nails and make it easy to replace the top if necessary.
Countersinking the screws so that their heads are below the wood’s surface will prevent them from scratching your submissive. To countersink the screws, first drill pilot holes for each screw. Then use a countersink,or a larger drill bit to cut an indentation in which the screw head will fit. (figure X)

Customize your sawhorse as needed–wrapping the top in carpeting or padded leather/material for use with delicate subbies, or adding attachments to hold frequently used tools.

Article MissBonnie © CollarNcuffs.com

You can be like the cat that got the cream with this rubber Cat-O-Nine-Tails. The cat-o-nine tails is a type of multi-tailed whipping device that originated as an implement for severe physical punishment, notably in the British Royal Navy.

To make the rubber flogger you will need…

• A piece of wooden doweling ? a section of broom handle is idea and inexpensive
• a cycle inner tube
• rubber cement and some elastic bands.

First cut a piece of doweling to 14cm in length. Sand the end to get rid of any rough edges.

Cut a length of inner tube to 53cms, avoiding writing on the rubber. Then cut a straight line length-ways down the tube and open it out to a rectangle.

Cover the first 15cm of the rubber, (on the inside) with rubber cement. Place the piece of dowel onto the glued up rubber and hold it firm whilst it starts to stick. Then slowly roll the dowel along, rolling it up in the rubber. The other side of the rubber rectangle should overlap onto the first side.

Leave a small amount of overhanging rubber off the end of the dowel. This can be cut to size later once the glue is dry.

Wipe away any excess glue with a damp cloth.

Hold the rubber in place on the dowel by fixing a couple of elastic bands around to hold everything securely in place whilst the glue dries.

After a good 20 minutes or so, remove the elastic bands.

Re-apply glue to any edges that have not suck down properly the first time, and again hold everything in place with elastic bands. Leave overnight until all the glue had dried. In the morning remove the elastic bands, clean any excess glue away, and trim the overhanging rubber on the handle of the flogger.

At the other end of the flogger where there is a long surplus of rubber, carefully cut the rubber length ways towards the handle to create tails. The rubber easily cuts with a sharp pair of scissors. Either cut chunky tails or skinny tails. If you do cut thinner tails you can add to the pain by tying a small knot at the tip of each tail, great for really naughty slaves.

Article by S.Roberts © collarncuffs.com