Saving Money on Femdom toys

I’m always working on making toys the longer your in the lifestyle the more toy ideas you see. .I see them every where and with a little imagine you can turn anything into some thing perverted and fun But that said, there are all kinds of things we can do to have fun and save money (or embarrassment off shopping). The idea is look to at Adult toys that are on the market and gleam your ideas from them ..touch them, feel if at all possible ..think about what you would change or alter ..how can best make it suit your needs…search on the net for pictures and ideas.

Seems like every Domme wants a riding crop. It seems like you have to have one. Don’t go to a fetish/adult store to buy one. They’ll charge you $20-35 or more. Go to a tack shop, where you get riding supplies. What a novel concept, get a riding crop from a riding store … much cheaper. At my last visit they had better ones than I saw at the fetish/adult shop. Plus as an added bonus the choice and range is more varied, and you even get colored variety.

A Bondage safety idea

Do you know about panic snaps? (great things I Love them)
They’re used for horses .. $2 or $3 at farm supply shop. They provide two attachment loops But if the horse – or the bound slave – panics, you pull on the barrel in the center, and one of those rings springs open and your captive is free. Good in case of an emergency. If someone passes out or has a fit, epileptic or otherwise LOL, you don’t want to spend time releasing them. And with the panic snaps you can support their weight while releasing them. In a group situation you can always get someone to hold the person while you release ordinary snaps, but it’s harder and sometimes impossible when you’re alone.

There are other things you can ‘pervert’. Brushes of all sorts, I have a little scrub brush .. A hoof brush, It is stiff, with slightly scratchy bristles. .. $1.49 (From the farm supply shop.)
farm supplies… a drovers whip is about $3/7… its kind of a cross between a crop and a cane…
Saddle girth straps and stirrup’s leathers also have possibilities ..I brought an old girth leather ..now it’s a twase strap with a lovely snap and a great little stinger.
One more thing from the farm supply shop. That rubbery gauze they have in various colors for wrapping around horse’s hoofs. Its called vet wrap. sticks to itself. I use it to wrap around things, create a handle. Great stuff. (also great for binding)

decorate your bound sub in plastic wrap (Mmm Gladwrap or saran wrap as others call it) If you have access to pallet this is wider and works so well . I also like polo wraps from the farm store. A set of 4, matching colors, soft, stretchy but not too stretchy.. Good for blindfolding, impromptu binding to a chair. very safe, very effective. Hehe gave me ideas for Easter/Christmas look out Oz I’m bored again. Hmm vet wrap is also wonderful for CBT and so cheap at farm supplies.

home made spreader bars

Plastic curry brush, from the pet supply shop, cost a couple of dollars, comes in designer colors, mine is purple. It has a little clip you slide between your fingers to hold it, has all these plastic fingers sticking out the other end, for doing things with your dog’s coat. Never mind perversion, I’ve started using on my head, scalp massage. It feels wonderful. There is also another variety, rectangular in shape, with little indentations for your fingers on the side, big rubbery fingers on one of the flat surfaces, great for massage .. again, it comes in lots of florescent colors from your pet supply store. While your there don’t forget pet bowls and animal cages, leashes. a nilabone (plastic dog chew bone) drilled at the ends. thread through leather laces makes a great gag for your playful pup
Kitten collars…make the best cock ring the variety is endless from pink jewel encrusted to black leather studded.

If you want a collar, check out a good pet supply shop before you go to a fetish/Adult shop. I saw a very nice, three inch wide dog collar with huge studs on it, for about $20. Of course, you only get one d-ring to snap things to. Some even have a metal plate for engraving your subs name. give it that personal touch *wink*…choker training collars make great extension points, they have a O ring on both end that fits just about all attachment points (please note I do not recommend using around you sub/s neck)
Added note: Many farm supply stores carry a variety of collars, and whips… as well as a variety of chains, ropes..
Kitchen stores have wooden spoons, cutting boards, make great paddles.
My best “killer” paddle is from the surplus store .. it’s a 36“ child size canoe paddle. I paid $8 for it, I can hold it by the end and swing the whole length. I haven’t ever tried it full force … but I am told gentle works pretty well. Keep an eye out in discount shops rug beaters. spray paint them if you want colors to match.

What about those heavy rubber tie downs with the metal hooks, which you use for strapping things to a pickup truck/Ute or onto a motorcycle A friend uses two or three, folded double. Without the metal hooks, of course.

While we’re on the topic of getting things cheaper than at fetish shops nipple clamps .. the Japanese clover clamps .. much cheaper at the sewing supply shop .(Aussie version: fabric clamp (spotlight)) They have a little clamp which attaches to the table and holds the clover clamp, used for embroidery or something. Of course, they only sell half a pair, so you wind up with two table clamps, left over. You need to pick up a bit of chain, (choker chain works *wink*) , to join them. Also have similar in local electronics suppliers (yes I’m a geek too)

Pinwheel, play piercing

Wattenberg Wheel. go back to the sewing shop
the Wattenberg’s are much sharper than the sewing ones. little prickling sensations. (Or so they tell me). no blood, but definitely prickling… my limits.

And if you want a cheap blindfold, try the drugstore/chemist .. Sleep masks.
I have both a red satin and a purple satin sleep mask, for special occasions.

Want a ball gag? get a practice gold ball .. hard plastic, hollow, with holes in it; put a rope or thong through the holes (leather boot laces work well )You can still breath with it in place. I wound up with a package of six .. anyone want five practice golf ball’s? Oz doesn’t chew threw them anymore LOL and did I say “hello drool”

And since bdsm involves sex, (at least for some people it does), disposable plastic gloves, large, fits either hand. A package of 24 for $1 cents, at the dollar store.

Making simple toys, tool dip

But now for the creative part, where you get to show off in front of people .. making stuff. A friend took a few bungee cords, removed the outer layer and found a whole bunch of tiny rubber strands inside … makes a great tit whip or cock & ball whip.
I liked the idea, so I stopped by my favorite place, the farm supply store, and bought a bungee cord. Instead of little spaghettis, I found a dozen fettuccini; wide strips, maybe half inch wide … Different bungee cords have different insides .. so you can wind up with several patterns. (not to mention colors)

At the kitchen store, I bought some wooden skewers intended for bar b queuing. Little strips of bamboo, a foot long, pointed at one end. Take a third or half the package, wrap a string around one end a few times. I got fancy, and dipped it in red tool dip. You can use it as a stick, tap the skin with it, or you can use the pointy ends, drag that across skin.
What is tool dip? Tool dip is liquid rubber Plastisol
it’s stuff you dip your metal tools in if you are working with electric stuff so you have plastic to break any charges
You dip the ends of metal tools into this, and it forms a handle. You can use it to color code stuff (Hint different lengths of rope different end colors), or to whip the ends of ropes. I use it to make handles for floggers and toys.

One thing I did was to dip ordinary, thin kitchen string in the tool dip. I dipped the whole length of the string, six foot pieces. Then folded it into shorter pieces once it’s dry, bundled it together with a handle at one end, about a dozen strips, a foot long. It makes a nice stingy toy.

Or another idea rope and dip: take a nylon string about clothes line size; tie knots in it about 1 inch apart then coat the knots with dip, just the knots and DADA anal beads!
I also dipped parachute cord, that’s a thin, loose, braided rope, scraped off the excess .. it became very stiff, like a switch or birch. I stuck six lengths together, very stingy, on a bigger scale than the tiny strings.

The stuff hardens quite hard the dipped rope has some flexibility, but not much.

the container of Plastic dip is about the – half the – size of a tennis-ball can. A pint? like a small container of paint.

If your after more flex I might also suggest liquid latex…might be more flexible…I haven’t ventured into this a lot its still a work in progress lol .
Anyone like canes? Mini blind rods work pretty well. As do cane garden stakes if you get creative on the handle they can look and feel quite effective.
I made one using the fiberglass rods you join together to assemble a dome tent. The fibreglass rods are too thick, not flexible enough .. too much of a whack. But I think a fishing rod would be great ..
Just I would like to suggest being careful with fiberglass… it will shatter, or crack causing terrible cuts and splinters…I have tried the last segment of an old deep-sea – or surf – fishing rod. The plexi does bend
a lot. a friend of mine uses blank fishing rods as canes, dipped in tool handle stuff.
I dipped tiny plastic rods, about 1/16 ” , and used the dip as a bundler to make an instant handle. It all looked great, but the rods broke, shattering in use. 🙁

For those without a partner, I have a suggestion 🙂 Go to the supermarket and buy leather boot laces 🙂 The pack quite a sting and make a delightful “swish” as they go over your shoulder for self flagellation:)

I have four leather thongs, folded double, attached to a key ring. Makes a nice fetish decoration to wear at my waist, and a convenient portable toy.

I bought a spool of that kind of leather and braided 4 foot lengths for a handle about 8“, leaving the rest loose… a flogger… quite effective, cost about $10

Making a soft rope flogger, hard rubber flogger, simple short whip. A rope flogger can be nice .. softest thing around. It needs to be nylon, other plastics are nasty. Unwind the rope into strands. Unwind the strands into yarns. unwind the yarns into threads. Now there are 140000 loose threads instead of 8 or ten ropes. Makes a soft thud .. learned that from one of the local munch group.

If you have the luxury of living in a big city, where the garment district has tassel shops. get a fine nylon tassel of 100s of individual ends that swish, and a you have a stinger. (some stores also stock silk)

A rubber flogger. A bicycle inner tube, cut into lengths, about two feet long. Split the tubes. Open into not-very-flat panels, and cut into strips joined at one end. Glue the joined end onto a handle with rubber cement. Makes a healthy whack.

and a short whip, made from leather thongs, braided together. If you made a bracelet from bits of plastic when you were eight, you know the basic knot … google for “wall knots”. You can either reverse direction at each stage, or keep going in one direction, I like that, gives a spiral effect. The whip starts with eight thongs, every 6 rows I take one out of the set, forcing it into the middle core. Eventually, the thongs run out, I push them into the middle to make a spreader bar from a tension rod with the spring removed… drilled a series of holes in it and insert a bolt to make it adjustable…. bolt chains on each end for cuffs… whole thing around $20 (cuffs dog collars) or a broom handle cut down with eye bolts…shorten the same design ..join two.. you have a hogtie

My favorite idea from a web page … licorice strings … first you whip him, then you eat the evidence (yummy)

ice Dildo …. have a cardboard tube, say from a roll of toilet paper, standing up, with a condom hanging down inside … the open end of the condom wrapped around the top of the tube. Put some water into it, put in the freezer.

When you take it out of the freezer, make sure you run some water over it or do something to take the edge off, slightly, you don’t want freezing cold to damage the skin. Hint add a few more condom if you feel its too cold.

I have a very thick leather belt I got from the Salvation Army store. I remember getting the strap in the principle’s office. This feels very much like that. I think it cost me $3

feather duster (tickler)…I like those big ostrich feathers too\\
I like climbing stores you can get wide webbing, buckles, Velcro all kinds of things

And recently at a Fashion Center store in Melbourne, they had a sale of silky rope, purple colored. 10 yards for $5. Amazing… I got 20 yards.

I have a pair of tweezers I bought at an electronics / mechanics surplus store. The zigzag kind, normally closed, squeeze to open Makes an interesting nipple clamp, doesn’t squeeze very hard .. $2 they also sell them at jewelry supply shops. they’re called ‘cross-lock tweezers.’

dental picks?? Not a sex insertion toy .. don’t insert anywhere use them for skin .. sensation control .. tease a person’s skin with the pointy parts
..the list is endless and you are only limited by your imagination…its not how something looks ,its how it feels, and how you feel when you use it…look around your home ..or shed I bet your getting ideas ..have fun ..experiment ..enjoy that’s what its all about and if you get a good idea feel free to share it ..include a picture if you want we’d love to post it and give you credit

Resource Article : MissBonnie © CollarNcuffs.com

Kinky Crafts

Making your own Femdom/ BDSM toys

Here are a few items you can make easily and inexpensively for yourself. Maybe you want to be able to construct some toys instead of carrying things with you when you travel, or maybe you like the idea of using things you’ve made on someone. Either way, here are seven quick ideas for toys you can make yourself from easy obtainable materials. Each of the materials lists tells you what you need to make one of them, but you can make as many as you want the same way.


Bubblewrap Dildo

Materials List:

  • non-lubricated condom(s)
  • some bubblewrap, approximately 8 x10 sheets
  • some duct tape (only need a little)

Construction Details:

First, take the bubblewrap and roll it up (bubble side out for more sensations). Now take the condom and unroll it over the bubblewrap tube you made. Finally, use a little duct tape to seal the condom and you have an instant dildo. Or, if you want to use two condoms, you can skip sealing the first one and just slip the second one over the open end of the first condom now and then roll it down before sealing it with a little duct tape.

Play Tip:

Tell your partner to try to pop as many bubbles as they can (without using their hands of course).


Simple spreader bar

materials List:

  • wooden dowel rod, approximately 1 x24
  • three screw eyes, #6 size

Construction Details:

If you happen to have a drill you can make this easier by pre-drilling a hole in each end of the dowel rod and one hole in the middle. But if you don’t have a drill it’s easy enough to just attach the screw eyes by hand. One goes in each end of the dowel rod, and one goes in the middle of the rod.

Play Tips:

Ankle or wrist cuffs or other restraints can be attached to the eyes in the ends of the dowel rod. The middle eye and some rope or chain can be used to secure the rod to the head- or footboard of a bed, to a wall, or to the ceiling if you have an attachment point there. [Note: do not use for suspension, a metal spreader bar is suggested for any real weight-bearing play.]


Golfball Gag

Materials List:

  • practice golfball, plastic, with holes
  • piece of leather thong, approximately 24
  • emery board

Construction Details:

First, take the emery board and work on the rough edges where the two halves of the golf ball were joined. (Remember it’s going in someone’s mouth and you don’t want to cut their lips.) Then pass the leather lace through two holes on opposing sides of the ball. Knot the lace on each side of the ball to keep it centered on the lace.

Play Tips:

The ball goes in the mouth, the lace ties behind the head. The holes in the ball allow for breathing, drooling, and some grunting and screaming sounds to escape. Since your partner won’t as easily be able to use a safeword (if you use them), you’ll need to set up a safe signal instead.


Bootlace Whip

Materials List

  • handful of bootlaces, or the plastic lacing used for lanyards
  • roll of duct tape

Construction Details

Take the bootlaces and fold them in half. If you’re using the plastic lacing, cut them into lengths about 3 feet long and then fold those in half. Wrap duct tape around the folded section to make a handle for the whip.

Play Tips

With a variety of plastic lacing colors and some colored duct tape you can make a pretty attractive whip. But remember that this is not a gentle whip, and can be used to cause sharp though not severe pain (depending on where it’s used). You can also try wetting the laces before use to add more weight to the tails.


Frayed Rope Flogger

Materials List:

  • three feet of soft nylon rope
  • popsicle stick
  • piece of leather thong, approximately 24
  • Super Glue

Construction Details:

Take the rope and fold it in half with the popsicle stick lengthwise in the middle. Now put some Super Glue on the end of the leather thong. What you want to do is wrap the leather thong around the folded rope and popsicle stick to make a handle for the flogger. Start by wrapping over the end with the Super Glue on it, then finish by adding some glue to the other end and tucking it under the wraps. When you’re done just unravel the rope to create the flogger tails.

Play Tips:

While this isn’t a very painful flogger, it’s good for warming up someone before a heavier flogging or for bringing someone back down after one. The tails can tangle pretty easily, so tie a knot in them when not in use to keep them under control (hitting them with a little spray Static Guard will help with that too).


Clothespin Zipper

Materials List:

  • six to eight clothespins (or more)
  • silk cord, or plastic or leather lace, 24 (or more)

Construction Details:

This zipper can be made a couple of ways. The traditional way is to pass the cord or lace through the metal spring in each clothespin and knot the cord on each side of each clothespin. This gives you a reusable zipper that stays together for next time. The other way to make a zipper is to simply clamp each clothespin over the cord. While there is nothing keeping the clothespins on the cord, they will still all pull off at once.

Play Tips:

Make these with sets of different sized clothespins. You can string a lot of the little tiny ones on a cord to torment places where the big clothespins don’t work as well. Tie several strings to one control cord and pull that one to remove all the sets at once. Clips and clamps


Black Jack Cane

Materials List:

  • some clear vinyl tubing, 1/4 or 1/2 inside diameter, 24 long
  • two to four erasers from the ends of pencils
  • big handful of BBs (copper, steel or both)
  • Super Glue
  • roll of duct tape

Construction Details:

First put some Super Glue inside one end of the vinyl tubing. Now stuff one or two erasers inside the tube to seal that end. Trim the eraser even with the end of the tube. Turn the tube around and pour the BBs into the other end, almost filling the tube. (Twirl a piece of paper into a funnel shape to make pouring them in easier.) Put a little Super Glue inside this end of the tube too. And now stuff an eraser or two into this end, trimming it even with the tube end again. Wrap as much duct tape as you want around one end of the tube to make a handle for the cane.

Play Tips:

Depending on the diameter of the tube you’ll have either a stingier or a thuddier cane. If you use both steel and copper BBs you can add them in layers for a nice visual effect in the clear tubing. Add colored duct tape for a more custom touch. You can also fold the tube in half and duct tape the whole length of it to create a nice thuddy blackjack.

Resource Article : MissBonnie collarNcuffs.com © 2006

MAKING YOUR OWN CANES FOR FEMDOM PLAY

Canes have a sweet, sharp bite and are one of the most intense striking toys in BDSM Femdom. But most people would be surprised how easy and inexpensive they are to make. Here’s our process for making rattan canes. Although many people think canes are made out of bamboo, most BDSM folk use canes made from rattan. Bamboo can split into sharp splinters. Rattan is a reed that grows in China and Indonesia. It is relatively easy to find, because it is used to make furniture. Check your local Yellow Pages for furniture-making or caning supply stores. If you don’t have any nearby, you can order rattan over the Internet as well

bag containing home made canes for Femdom play
canes

Traditional canes are made of rattan, a woody reed from the East Indies. It has a jointed stem that resembles bamboo, but is not hollow. Rattan is very tough and strong, and makes the most durable natural canes we know. Like bamboo, it comes in all sorts of diameters; traditional canes are about 8mm, but thicker and thinner ones are also useful. Rattan can sometimes be found at craft stores or Oriental basketwork shops. It is used to make wicker furniture, so a repairer of that might have a stock of it as well. Unfortunately, most of the cane-sized rattan that comes into this country (Australia) has been bent into coils, which warps and sometimes cracks it.

If you must deal with the coiled stuff, it should first be cut to length with a fine-toothed saw. Coping saws and hacksaws work well. A dressmaker’s tape is a handy way to measure along the coils. Obviously, you should discard cracked peices. Less obviously, your canes will be much more durable if the tip includes one of the joints of the stem. The convoluted grain in each joint resists splitting, as opposed to the very straight grain that runs for the foot or so between joints. A lot of the coiled rattan has been peeled and sanded, but the joints are still noticeable if you look and feel carefully. Cut the stem about a stem diameter to one side of the joint; this will become the tip of the cane. (The ends without joints included are fine for handles – the tips are what take the shock and strain.)

You can make the canes any length you like; People have different preferences when it comes to cane lengths. Remember that the longer the cane, the more whippy (and hard to control) I prefer 20-30 inches (50-80cm) as they are easier to aim and more convenient in close quarters. Long ones have more power, but can be awkward. The natural variations in your coil will probably give you several choices.

You can also cut the rattan to make double canes. A double cane is a length of rattan that has been bent back on itself, to make what looks something like a snowshoe frame or loop. These canes fit nicely onto a buttock, and are easier to transport. To make double canes, carefully bend the rattan back on itself, tie it in position, and soak it again. It may take multiple times of bending, tying, and soaking to get the shape you want. Don’t try to force the rattan to bend farther than it wants to, or you will end up with a kink–and not the good kind!

You can also bend just one end to make a shape similar to a walking or candy cane. We find this shape to be less practical, but some submissives strongly identify “cane” with this shape, so we always make a few of these. Rattan is sized via a number system. We find that sizes between 10 and 15 are most useful; to start with, I recommend ordering size 12, which is 3/8 inch or 9 mm in diameter. This will make a whippy cane with enough strength to stand up to fairly heavy use. Each tip needs to be rounded off; any kind of edge here will break skin far too easily. Coarse sandpaper works well, especially in a power sander of some kind. Hand sanding will also do, as will a fairly coarse metal file. Whatever you use, try for a smoothly rounded end. Now hand-sand the whole length of each cane with medium paper; try to remove the stray fibers you find sticking up from the wood. They are a nuisance during varnishing.

The cut pieces will have to be soaked and steamed to straighten them without breaking. We soak ours in the bathtub for a day or two, but any water will do. Don’t let them dry out. After soaking comes steaming and straightening. You will need some way of keeping the canes straight as they dry; we lay them in a series of grooves we routed into a plank, and then clamp another plank on top of them. You can also try shoving each one down a length of pipe; plastic water pipe won’t rust and stain the canes. (even come with screw on plastic caps)

When you have your straightening rig set up, boil a big kettle of water. Wrap the canes in a towel or two, lay them in the (drained) tub and pour some boiling water over them. Dose them every minute or so for a few minutes, and then unwrap them; the scalding will make them limp and easy to uncurl. (Dishwashing gloves help keep your fingers from scalding, too.) Quickly, before they can cool, bend them straight and put them in the jig. Put the jig in a dry place with good ventilation for five days Remove the canes and hang them up for air drying; we use clothespins/pegs on cords. Let the canes dry for a few days until they feel dry to the touch, but still whippy. The key to a useful, long-lasting cane is to preserve a bit of moisture inside. Once a cane is completely dried out, it will become brittle.

After a few days of air drying, brush them thoroughly with a coat marine varnish. Regular varnish is too stiff for canes–it tends to flake off after a while. Marine varnish is flexible and will completely seal the cane. Check boating supply stores or order it off the Web: Give each cane at least three coats; let each coat dry enough that you can sand off any lumps. Some newspapers on the floor under them will be a good ideas, since at least one of them will drip no matter how careful you are.

The handle end of each cane can be left as is, or a grip can be added for comfort or appearance. You can dip the handle ends in plastic tool dip – it will take several coats, and you can hang them from the same setup you used in the varnishing. The fumes of this stuff are truly nasty; be sure you have good ventilation. Less toxically, you can wrap the grips with cord or leather lacing, sew a scrap of leather or cloth around them, or cover them with tape. Bicycle handlebar tape makes a fine grip.

You can of course prepare other kinds of wooden rods this way – and avoid all the straightening hassle by picking ones that are straight to begin with. Bamboo is cheap and widely available, and also stiffer than rattan, which makes aiming easier. Bamboo, of course, is hollow and the tip must be made at a joint, just as described for rattan. Bamboo works fine for light to medium blows; heavy blows with it can be dangerous. Bamboo can split without warning, and the splits have edges like razors! Hardwood dowels from the hardware store can have the same problems. Avoid either of these materials for heavy canings.

Many other plants have canelike shoots. Forsythia is a very popular ornamental, and the older branches from the inside of the bush can make quite a reasonable cane. Prepare as you would rattan. They aren’t as durable, but the price is right, especially if rattan is hard to buy where you live. Apple trees develop suckers each year, especially upward from the top branches. These grow straight, to about the right length, and are pruned off in great numbers every year. They are quite tough and durable. The buds make rough little bumps along the shoot; they can be sanded off if they seem too harsh.

Some twigs, such as birch or willow, are fine for scenes but far too flexible to be considered or used as canes. Handling them is a whole different topic.

There are also synthetic canes, mostly plastics. Plastics are much denser than wood, so they hit harder and the stroke is more penetrating. They are very easy to clean, which is a good thing because the thinner ones break skin quite easily. There are shops in most large and medium cities that sell plastic supplies. There can be a confusing variety of materials there: Delrin, Lexan, and fiberglass are three kinds of rod that are tough enough to make good canes. Acrylic is not tough enough; I have broken several. If the clear look appeals to you, get Lexan. Sora, from San Francisco, makes some very nice Lexan canes, if you want to buy ready-made. If you prepare your own, you won’t need to varnish them, but be sure to remember to round and smooth the tip!

MissBitch & MissBonnie Hints and tips

we recently found a source of rattan by the devious method of trying the yellow pages. Now we where able to make 10 straight canes for the huge sum of $4.60. We think others in fairly large cities may well have equal success if they look, why fool around with dowels or garden stakes when the real thing is cheaper?

Indeed. When buying rattan, however, you can’t simply say, “Oh, I bought thirty feet, that means I can make ten canes!” Rattan has warps and knots and such in it. When we’re cutting canes, we probably discard about 50% of the raw material in order to get something that really balances well.

If you’re going to stain and varnish it – and there’s a lot of disagreement about whether canes should be coated – you can use pretty much any wood stain to stain it with. We finish ours with marine varnish, which takes a lot of work – it’s messy stuff, and it needs to dry overnight. Since we usually do about six coats of varnish, a cane isn’t exactly a quick-and-dirty toy for us. Polyurethane is much quicker because it’s fast-drying, but all polyurethane finishes have something of a tendency to flake, and this is really exacerbated when you’re dealing with a flexible cane. Be sure to have all your sanding done before you stain and varnish, and round the striking tip as well.

As noted before, marine varnish provides excellent sealing properties while maintaining flexibility. You will usually want to apply ‘at least’ two coats. We do each coat in two parts, so there is always a dry portion of the cane to attach the hanging string to. If you are only going to use the cane on one person, you can choose not to use varnish–but you will need to re-soak the cane frequently to maintain its moisture level. Varnishing seals in the moisture and provides a barrier to body fluids–rattan, as with all woods, is porous.

At this point, all you need is a willing submissive to try your new canes out on. Have fun!

Further Reading Canes and how to use them

Resource Article : MissBonnie and MissBitch

Ball Gag

Crafting a Rope Monkey Fist Knot Ball Gag for Femdom Play

Why Personalize Your Bondage Gear?

In the world of BDSM and femdom play, personalizing your equipment can add a unique and intimate touch to your sessions. A handcrafted rope monkey fist knot ball gag is not only a functional piece of gear but also a symbol of care and attention to detail. Producing your own bondage items can enhance the overall experience by allowing you to customize both the aesthetic and the size to suit your needs.

Materials Needed for a Monkey Fist Knot Ball Gag

Before you begin crafting your rope monkey fist knot ball gag, gather the necessary materials. You will need:

– A length of soft yet sturdy rope (cotton or nylon work well)
– A small, spherical object to form the core of the knot (a marble or rubber ball)
– Scissors
– Measuring tape

Quality materials will ensure comfort and durability, which are essential for safe and enjoyable play.

Steps to Craft Your Monkey Fist Knot

Creating a monkey fist knot might seem complicated, but with patience and practice, it becomes easier. Follow these steps:

1. **Measure and Cut**: Measure out the rope to an appropriate length. Approximately 3 to 4 feet should suffice.
2. **Form the Core**: Place the spherical object in the center of your intended knot space.
3. **Wrap the Rope**: Begin by wrapping the rope around the core horizontally three times. Keep the loops tight.
4. **Vertical Wraps**: Turn the half-finished knot 90 degrees and wrap the rope vertically around it three more times.
5. **Final Wraps**: Rotate the knot again and wrap the rope around the previous wraps, ensuring it forms a ball.
6. **Tighten**: Gently tighten the wraps by pulling on each loop to secure the ball.

These straightforward steps will help you create a durable and personalized monkey fist knot ball gag in addition with the provided video.

Ensuring Safety and Comfort

Always consider safety and comfort when using homemade bondage equipment. Test the ball gag gently to ensure there are no sharp edges or uncomfortable pressures. Communication with your partner is crucial for a safe and pleasurable experience. Adjust as needed to ensure a secure yet comfortable fit.

By crafting your own rope monkey fist knot ball gag, you imbue it with a personalized touch that can make your sessions more meaningful and enjoyable.

Chastity Devices

A chastity device, is a locking item of clothing designed to prevent sexual intercourse, sexual activities, and possibly masturbation. The purpose may also be to protect the wearer from rape or temptation. Devices have been created for males and females.

The term “chastity belt” is also used metaphorically in modern English to imply overprotectiveness. The term carries a derisive connotation and may also imply that the subject is antiquated, or is cumbersome, or provides unnecessary or unwanted protection.

According to modern myth the chastity belt was used as an anti-temptation device during the Crusades, that when the knight was away from his young wife, he would force her to wear the belt day and night. There is no evidence or any documentation of such use, nor evidence of the existence of chastity belts until the 15th century, more than one hundred years after the last Crusade. On the other hand, it has been used as an anti-masturbation device for children in modern times from the 1700s to the 1930s. Nowadays it is prodomidetly used as BDSM equipment.

The actual use, if any, of medieval chastity belts would have been very limited, as the metalworking of the times would have made it difficult to fashion a belt safe for long-term wear.

Historical usage

The first known mention of what could be interpreted as chastity belts in the West is in Konrad Kyeser von Eichstätt’s Bellifortis, a ca. 1400 book describing the military technology of the era. The book includes a drawing that is accompanied by the Latin text: “Est florentinarum hoc bracile dominarum ferreum et durum ab antea sic reseratum.” (“These are hard iron breeches of Florentine women which are closed at the front.”) described as “both clumsy and heavy”, having “little in common with the later models which served the same use”. The Bellifortis account is not supported by any evidence or corroborating documents. In 1889, a leather-and-iron belt was found by Anton Pachinger—a German collector of antiquities—in Linz, Austria in a grave on a skeleton of a young woman. The woman was purportedly buried sometime in the 16th century. Pachinger, however, could not find any record of the woman’s burial in the town archives. The belt itself, along with most of the rest of Pachinger’s collection, has been lost.

Two belts have been exhibited at the Musée de Cluny in Paris. The first, a simple velvet-covered hoop and plate of iron, was supposedly worn by Catherine de’ Medici. The other—said to have been worn by Anna of Austria—is a hinged pair of plates held about the waist by metal straps, featuring intricately etched figures of Adam and Eve. There are other such belts at the Germanisches Nationalmuseum in Nuremberg and the British Museum in London. Most have been removed from display to avoid any further embarrassment because the authenticity of these belts as Renaissance devices has since been called into question.

From the 1700s through the 1930s, masturbation was widely regarded as harmful in Western medicine. Numerous mentions can be found in medical journals of the time of the use of chastity belt-like devices to prevent masturbation in children and adolescents.

Many designs for anti-masturbation devices were filed in the US Patent Office until the debunking of masturbation as a mental health problem in the early 1930s.

Modern use

Today, chastity belts are sometimes used in BDSM play and in consensual relationships. They are a means for the wearer to surrender control over their sexual behavior either for sexual play, or as a long-term method of preventing infidelity or masturbation. They range from simple leather or plastic toys commonly sold by adult stores to expensive high-security stainless steel devices made by a handful of specialist firms.

Chastity devices are also frequently used as a part of sexual feminization, where the male, who is called a sissy within the practice, is denied access to their penis as means of depriving them of sexual gratification such as masturbation and perceived masculinity.

Most modern chastity belt designs are descended from Hal Higginbottom’s designs from 1956. Sometimes modern Florentine-style belts are described as “Tollyboy-style” or “Tollyboy-type” belts as references to his company’s original design. Human anatomy varies very widely from person to person and steel belts intended for long-term use are bespoke items. The manufacture of such belts is necessarily a cottage industry. Many firms have come and gone over the years. Notable amongst those who have stopped manufacturing chastity belts since the 1980s are:

  • Access Denied (Paul Tooker of New York; closed after his death)
  • Herbert Rossmann (Austria)
  • In Discretione Fortitudo (Nifrik Scylla of the Netherlands)
  • Kastley (Germany) (reseller; original manufacturer unknown)
  • Pourquoi Pas (Germany)
  • Atelier Mode (Cologne, Germany)

Although no reliable statistics are available on the use of chastity belts, anecdotal reports from manufacturers suggest that most belts sold in Europe and the US are for men, and that of the female belts ordered, relatively few are used as rape prevention devices.

Manufacturers

Manufacturers of belts include.

Belt types

Modern chastity belt designs generally follow the basic “Florentine” pattern (named after the Bellifortis reference), with a band around the waist or hips and a “shield” running between the legs to cover the genitals.

On belts intended for long-term wear, this shield must accommodate the wearer’s hygienic needs:

  • For females, the shield is commonly a flat band with a slot through which the labia can protrude and through which urine can pass. Some manufacturers fit a perforated cover (sometimes called the “secondary shield”) over this slot to prevent the wearer from being pinched when sitting. The cover may also prevent direct masturbation by blocking the labia from touch.
  • For males, the shield usually covers a tube in which the penis is held facing downward, with perforations at the bottom of the shield to allow urine to escape. The testicles are usually left exposed on both sides of the tube, although some designs have an additional cup that prevents easy access to the entire genital area.
  • Belts with a “thong” arrangement have a single strap running up between the buttocks to the waistband. On some, this is a plastic-coated cable or a thin, curved metal rod. This strap may or may not be loose enough to pull aside, depending on whether the fit of the belt is to protect against anal penetration. On other designs, the rear strap is solid with an aperture over the anus to allow passage of feces.
  • Belts with a “V”-arrangement have a pair of chains attached together at the bottom of the shield and apart towards the back of waistband in a “V” to leave the rear open.
  • On both male and female belts, the shield can be designed to work with genital piercings for greater security. Most modern belts fasten with padlocks. Some high-security designs nest the lock within a shroud to make it more difficult to attack with bolt cutters. A handful of manufacturers, however, do offer higher-priced models with integral locks for a sleeker profile.

Chastity tubes and cages

Chastity tubes or chastity cages are similar devices designed for males for use without a supporting belt, although such devices are nevertheless frequently described as “chastity belts”.

Most chastity tubes have two parts: a ring seated around the base of the penis behind the scrotum and a capped tube, into which the flaccid penis is inserted. The tube is perforated to allow fluids to drain easily. Some designs have a curved or angled tube to make erections uncomfortable. The two parts mate together on hinges or pins and are held fast with a padlock, holding the testicles in a gap close enough to prevent the penis from being pulled out.

A popular example was the CB-2000, introduced in 1999 by A. L. Enterprises, which was an attempt to make a secure and affordable device which could be mass produced.

Chastity via Urethral Insertion

The most recent form of male chastity device making its debut uses a urethral tube to prevent erection. Like the chastity tubes and chastity cages this device is designed to be used without a supporting belt.

A ring is first seated around the base of the penis and behind the scrotum. Next, a urethral “Wand” is inserted into the flaccid penis and locked in place via a connector rod which mates the ring and wand portions together. In an advanced model the urethral tube is hollow to allow fluids to easily drain from the body, and the urethral tube is curved to make erections uncomfortable. The testicles are held in the gap between the ring and wand, and the wand passes beyond the ring and deep enough into the body to prevent the penis from being pulled out. A prime example of a urethral tube device is the CockTrap™, introduced in 2008 by malechastitynow.

Resource Article : MissBonnie © CollarNcuffs.com

Clips, clamps, and pins

..these are a few of my favorite Femdom things…

Imagine being in the depth of a terrific BDSM scene with your partner. Now, imagine the laundry bag full of clothes pegs/pins. “What?” You say! Think about it, why not take common household items and use them in an erotic encounter? Those cheap metal paper clips with the little miniature handles…a handful of colorful plastic or wooden clothespins…just imagine all the erotic spots you could use a dozen or two or three of those adorable and inexpensive miniature craft clothespins.

First and foremost, the basis of all BDSM play is ‘Safe, Sane and Consensual’. It is generally the Top’s responsibility to maintain safety during a scene, but, in my opinion, it is equally up to the submissive or bottom, to know and understand different play styles and safety considerations, before consenting to a scene. Now, let’s talk about safety!

Frequently, clothespins and clamps are used primarily on the breasts area, particularly on nipples. Other parts of the body are also erogenous and include, inner thighs, the webbing between toes and fingers, scrotum, and along the shaft of a penis. Clothespins make interesting earrings, on males, and with care, and can be used on any part of the body where you can ‘pinch’ up a fold of skin for the clamps and clothespins to grab. Here is the crux of the safety issue, in a nutshell: Clips, clamps and clothespins create the erotic sensations by cutting off the circulation! When left in place too long, or placed where they can crush or damage tissue and internal structures, such as the delicate blood vessels of the penile shaft, watch out! You have just managed to create a medical emergency for your submissive.

Selecting your ‘torture’ toys carefully is a step you can take to alleviate at least some of the danger involved in clamping human body parts and dangle bits.

Types of Clamping Toys

Wooden Clothespins

– By far, the most common clamping toys used in the BDSM and Femdom community. These are so inexpensive and readily available, you can easily toss them in the trash when you are finished with a scene, rather than trying to sterilize and re-use them. Wooden clothespins come in many sizes and clamping strength, so take your time and choose the right ones for your scene.

clipped penis
clipped penis

Plastic Clothespins

– Also, inexpensive and come in a variety of sizes (try the little doll size clothespins from the toy store for a real ouch and owww sensation!). Generally, the spring is not quite as strong on plastic clothespins as you find on quality wooden clothespins, but test them on yourself first, anyway. Plastic clothespins are much easier to sterilize than wooden ones. Just boil them in a pot of water for 3-5 minutes at a rolling boil, then strain out the water with a colander, and leave them to dry thoroughly before repacking them in your toy bag.

Alligator Clips

– Alligator are probably the most severe type of readily available clamping toy. They can be purchased at Auto supply stores, craft stores and electronic supply stores. They have teensy little painful teeth lining the jaws, and often have a ring or loop that you can attach weights of different sizes on for additional erotic torture. Be sure when sterilizing metal of any kind, to let it dry thoroughly before packing, or you will have a bag full of rust the next time you open your toy bag. Use a hairdryer to speed the drying process.

Legal-type Paper Clips, Medical Clamps, and Store-bought Clamps

– I personally never recommend the heavier paperclips bought at office supply stores. They have far too much ‘pinch’ to play safely, especially for a first-time clamping scene. Medical clamps, called ‘forceps’ are available in stainless steel and a variety of shapes and sizes. Generally, stainless steel forceps last forever and are sterilized by boiling them. They also make a great part of any Medical Scene! Finally, there are the great (and often decorative!) clamps you can purchase at any adult toy store, and even online.

Basic Safety Reminders

• Watch the placement! Never clamp any piece of flesh near to dense blood vessels, to avoid damaging nerves, or internal structures, such as the corpus cavernosum and corpus spongiosum of the penis, and tissues of the clitoral hood in women. Any damage to these structures can be permanent and cause lifelong pain and suffering.

Watch the clock! Don’t allow any clamping device to remain in place longer than 20 minutes maximum! The whole idea of clamping is creating condensed erotic pain when the blood flow starts recirculating back into the unclamped tissues. Do not allow the clamps to cause irreparable damage!

Watch Cleanliness! Never use any clip, clamp or clothespin on more than one submissive, without sterilizing the pieces thoroughly! And, NEVER switch back and forth between anal play and any other orifice with ANY toy.

With good planning, good communication, and adequate time for a session, your BDSM Femdom Clothespin Scene can be amazingly fun for everyone. Enjoy the exploration, and use your head. Your partner will appreciate it, and if you want to play clamping games again with them, you will too! Play safe!

Resource Article : MissBonnie and MissBitch © collarncuffs.com

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CLOTHESPINS

Wood versus plastic

Wooden clothespins are a bit kinder and have less tendency to abrade, thus I would suggest starting with them. Plastic clothespins tend to have much smaller ribbed gripping surfaces, and a ‘feel’ much stronger than the equivalent wooden ones. Extremely small plastic clothespins are very nasty indeed, and many may be used in the same area for greater intensity These also work well for CBT.

Wooden clothespins are available in several qualities, with the older, thicker ones being a bit better IMHO, and the thin ones more likely to splinter or have sharp edges. As one may purchase 50 of these for perhaps $4 American, these rank among least expensive of toys, and among the most versatile. Almost anything one may do with fingertip squeezing may be done with clothespins, and several things that cannot be accomplished with one’s fingers may easily be done with these tiny household beauties. Of course, this does leave your hands free for other activities….

Unmodified, most wooden clothespins of quality grip with between 4 and 6 pounds of pressure over an area of 3/16 X 1/2 inches. This is too much for some, and not enough for others. The grip is best increased by wrapping the clamping end with elastic bands, and decreased in several ways. The simplest is by weakening the springs by clamping something that requires the clothespin to be open to its limit for several days. This will reduce the clamping pressure by several pounds, dependent on the initial strength of the spring, the width of the opening, and the length of time one allows for stretching. Carefully pulling the jaws wider than they would normally travel will stretch the spring quickly, but this is harder to control.

Clamping Tightness [“too hard!”, “too soft!”, “just right!”]

Wrapping elastic bands around the legs of the clothespin will resist the tension of the spring and weaken the clamping force without permanently weakening the spring.

If you are willing to spend a bit more time, drill straight through both legs of the clothespin legs about one third from the end and thread a bolt through the holes, tightening a wing nut on the bolt will allow for wonderfully precise changes in clamping pressure, since the bolt-nut combination adjustably limits the travel of the legs. It is often best to drill a larger hole or even a slot in one leg for ease of adjustment. This requires perhaps 2 minutes per clothespin and is well worth the time, as the pressure may be slowly increased as ability to enjoy the sensation improves. Weights may be hung off of the clothespin as well by hooks or cords attached to such holes and hardware.

‘Standard’ Techniques [suggestions for beginning and advancing]

One classical place to begin with clothespins is the nipple, but there are many possible variations to this alone. The first grip recommended most often is with the clothespin pointing straight onto the nipple, not from the side, gripping the base of the nipple, not the tip, and perhaps a bit of areola as well. This does not have the same sort of ‘bite’ as grasping the nipple alone may, and often does wonderful things for sensitivity without causing severe pain. It is best to start with a rather weak clamping pressure and work upwards, and if you are just beginning, try not to leave the pins on for too long [start with what he can endure, and eventually work up to perhaps twenty minutes

I prefer not to leave them on longer than this, your mileage many vary. I like shorter times as I’m assured of no damage and can play again another day.

The longer the clamping time, the more fierce the sensation caused by removing the pressure. The increased sensitivity afterwards may last from minutes to many hours, depending on the person, the clamping force and time; and several things might be done in this period to use that sensitivity to advantage [beating with the proverbial ‘wet noodle’ or even a featherduster is quite effective]. Ice applied immediately after removing the clothespin may reduce the length and severity of the sensation if that is desired. You might try putting the clothespin on sideways, with the nipple centered in the the hole in the clamping area. If you do this far enough back on the nipple base or areola, the tip of a large nipple will remain exposed for other things, such as ice, nibbling, or smaller clips and clamps.

You might try clamping the nipple only, or work gradually out from the areola as his ability to enjoy more increases. Tapping or lightly brushing the tips of attached clothespins is effective, and a light vibrator may also be used if taped to the legs of the clothespin.

One simple device works nicely for both nipples at once on all but the smallest female breasts. Take two clothespins and glue the outsides of the legs together with a slight overlap.

then use the clamping ends to grasp both nipples from the sides at once. The pull will vary depending on breast size, but some will be present, thus causing her to jiggle her breasts gently can be fun, and of course, this is often just the thing to add to tickling. Size differences may require an additional short piece of wood to link the pair together, length best found by experiment.

Several Dommes have mentioned pulling on clothespins or clips with strings, chains or cords. The nipple itself may also be encircled by a thin cord or thread, I have used unwaxed dental floss to good effect. Avoid slipknots for the obvious reason that they might tighten too far in use.

peg zipper

Pulling off a clothespin is more painful than squeezing the legs to remove it gently, and is the basis for several devices below. Again, the longer one leaves them attached, the stronger the result. It is also possible to flick off clothespins with a flogger or some other striking device, and combining the two is an interesting way to add some bright ‘explosions’ to the sensations of a ‘standard’ flogging without switching instruments or striking harder. When doing this near the front of the body, some form of eye protection is needed, a heavy blindfold will serve nicely.

Other places you might wish to try

Many areas of the body might do well with a bit of clamping either for sensation or visual appeal. Other parts of the breast, and any portion of the torso and limbs where one may gather a bit of skin come immediately to mind. In view of the tiny expense, one might use many dozens at one time.

Specific classic variations include but are not limited to:

* a row, circle [or other sigil of your choice] on the belly or back the inner thigh or arm

* a belt of clothespins round the waist * small clothespins on the webbing of fingers and toes * the earlobe [the dangling legs of the clothspin brush the neck nicely] * behind the knees and inside the elbows * a circle round the thighs as a reminder to keep them spread

‘Zippers’ and other tailoring

Drill a hole through one leg of at least one dozen clothespins, thread them on a thong or cord, knotting them at small intervals, and you have created a zipper. One derivation for the name will become obvious the first time one tugs swiftly on one end of the cord and hears the sound made by the pins pulling off sensitive skin [there may be other sounds as well]. The spacing may vary, longer ones may be made, and double rows of 20 or so clothespins are common. The inside of the upper arm or thigh are rather traditional for these, but most areas of the body are available, one of my own favorites being the side of the body normally covered by the arms, after binding the arms over the head. Ticklish and sensitive.

A ‘tri-zipper’ is my own name for three of these single zippers with one end of each fastened to a central ring [a keyring will do, but try to find something a bit larger]. The ring is centered high on the belly, with the farthest pins attaching to the nipples and genitals’ perhaps with a bit of spiral towards the center of each region, and the nearest ones fastening to the skin near the center. The look of horrified anticipation as you grasp the ring and begin to pull slowly outwards, each pin popping off in turn as the three zipper lines move towards the most sensitive areas is not to be missed, while pulling faster often causes volumes of coloratura shrieking.

Modifying pins for more intense sensations

The simplest method is increasing the clamping force with one or more elastic bands round the clamping end, but there are several others.

Exceedingly nasty, as the clamping force now concentrates primarily on three small areas rather than the entire clamping area. Use this carefully, preferably with a fully adjustable clothespin as above, and make quite sure by testing on yourself first that the ends of the brads are NOT SHARP at all to avoid damage. Useful for those seeking more than a ‘regular’ clothespin may provide.

Several less extreme variations on the idea above are possible, all based on disassembling the clothespin, filing several grooves in the wooden clamping area, then reassembling the clothespin. Grooves and blunt ‘teeth’ aid in preventing slippage, and feel a bit more harsh than flat wood.

Removing perhaps one-half of the side of the clamping area with a saw or rasp provides two benefits, the same clamping pressure will be applied over a smaller area, and double the number of clothespin tips may fitted to the same bit of anatomy. Remember to round the edges slightly with sandpaper to avoid splinters or other inadvertent injury.

A design for testing the clamping force of clothespins

Tradition demands testing on the web of one’s hand, this is well and good for impromptu buying and to get a subjective feel for the actual sensation of a new design, but lacks precision and repeatability, qualities dear to the heart of any engineer. Some thinking and a bit of experimentation resulted in the following frame to directly and accurately measure clamping force in clothespins

Resource Article : MissBonnie © collarncuffs.com

Related Resource Article:

clips_clamps

gag safety in consensual Femdom scenes

Gags are devices that are inserted into the mouth to muffle sound & increase the feeling of helplessness. Gags come in many sizes, shapes & materials. Everything from the ball gag to the penis gags to inflatable gags. Gag and muzzle play is wonderful for a variety of bondage and dungeon scenes or to spice up bedroom fun too. Gags are a very powerful instrument, when used in the correct way and for the right purpose, both from a psychological point of view (usually their main purpose) as well as from a purely physical and practical point of view. Many submissives find that being gagged exacerbates their sense of helplessness within a BDSM / Femdom scene, and desire to be gagged for that reason. Gags also have connotations of punishment and control, and are therefore often also used as a form of humiliation to the wearer.

Gags and Silence

In practice, no gag is effective enough to completely silence someone without inhibiting breathing. Most gags that do stop the sub from making intelligible speech still allow loud inarticulate vocal noises to call for help. For example, many people think that using a gag will help prevent complaints from neighbors. Guess what, it is very likely exactly the opposite occur. Want to know why? Well, If there is one very distinctive sounds (no matter how faint) the average TV-veiwer has gotten used to (psychologically programmed) the faint sounds of a gagged person, especially hearing it through walls, from behind bushes or from the trunk of a car. You won’t believe how many even wake up when they hear a sound that “sounds like” a gagged person and call the police. A gag can be useful to suppress outcries of pain provided the sub has been taught to BITE in it to fight the pain instead of shouting, (which is another energy burst). The gag doesn’t muffle the cries – the gag is supposed to be an alternative for shrieking and crying.

safety with gags

Placing a gag on anybody is very risky, as it involves a substantial risk of asphyxia if the subject’s nose is blocked by the gag. Using a gag on somebody who is ill, or affected by some condition such as the common cold, catarrh, or the flu, is also quite Dangerous and can be life threatening.

Sizing a gag

Most gags have been designed by people with little or no experience in Femdom power exchange, and usually only made to appeal to certain fantasies and create sales. So, whatever you do when you go to buy a gag: buy a small one. In the BDSM/Femdom-situation the objective of the gag is to humiliate, both through creating a saliva problem as well as through the fact that any more or less coherent speech is impossible and reduced to funny sounds. The main objective is to remind the submissive in a physical way that he is not supposed to talk. Some types of gags may serve other purposes as well, such as to bite in (to help fight or cope with the pain), steer (in pony play) or train (for oral sex)., a gag very frequently serves as a pacifier in the same way it does for babies. Being able (or being allowed) to suck on something can be comforting.

A gag that is too big will be too uncomfortable to keep in for any length of time (and usually that is exactly what you WANT a gag to be used for), because it will create cramps in the jaw muscles and a gagging effect if it is too long. There is no need for the gag to go in any deeper than halfway down the tongue.

There’ll almost always be room enough to let a sufficient amount of air flow around the gag. And – unless he has a cold – he can breath through the nose as well. The fear of not being able to breath is largely psychological and – although not very rational – something that most slaves will have to learn to overcome.

The main danger of a gag is that it will interfere with a submissives breathing. Do not leave a gagged submissive unattended. Make sure the nasal air-way is completely clear. Always double check your gags. Attach any mouth stuffing to the gag itself so it will not slide down the submissives throat

Tips for using gags

Never leave the sub out of sight and preferably be in a position where either the domme or someone else – if that is an option – can monitor the facial expression of the sub on a more or less constant basis (which is one reason why having mirrors in your dungeon can be very handy). The first signs of lack of air are the eyes widening (“popping out”), lips turning blueish and the facial skin turning either red or pale. Unexpected heavy sweating – on the forehead – is another warning signal Inability to breath is mostly a matter of panic. It should be dealt with. Always remove the gag instantly, because you should respond to panic seriously, regardless if there is a logical reason for it or not. .. Make sure there is some sort of non-verbal warning signal or safe word. Humming SOS in Morse code (three short – three long – three short) is one way, but not always handy. A bell to ring is the most efficient safety tool. An old and not always practical advice is to give the sub a ball or a set of car keys in his hand, he can drop if he feels he is in trouble. That signal may be too subtle and may be overlooked easily. If he has to drop something, let him drop something that makes noise when it falls, so you have a double warning signal!!the submissive vigorously nod their head UP and DOWN. (Most subs can shake their heads from side to side but hardly any nod)

Have the submissive grunt in a recognizable pattern, such as two short grunts then pause then two more (tunes can be fun)For our more talented submissives: learn the deaf alphabet and teach it to your dominant (Great if you need a submissive to focus…and not let their mind wonder) Make sure – whatever the restraint, bondage or position is – a gagged sub can always tilt his head sideways (when laying down) or bow it (when the head is in a more or less upright position) so he can expel excess saliva. This is humiliating, but always a better choice than choking. Never gag anyone suffering from heart or lung related diseases, regular hyperventilation or claustrophobia, someone who is on heavy medication or psycho drugs or suffers from diabetes or seizures.

Resource Article : MissBonnie © collarncuffs.com

Ben Wa Balls

Here’s a little background.

ben wah balls

Ben Wa balls originated in Japan and were originally called Rin No Tama. In their original form they consisted of three metal covered balls linked by a delicate chain with a silk string for retrieval. The first ball was meant to keep the other two balls in place to massage the g-spot and the vaginal opening. Women wore these balls not to bring themselves to orgasm but to enjoy a lasting teasing sensation. Modern sets work similarly, so don’t expect fireworks–this isn’t a toy designed to stimulate the clitoris. The most popular modern version is duo-tone balls, which are two or four metal spheres encased in hard plastic and linked with a cord for easy retrieval. The metal balls rock back and forth inside their plastic casings and vibrate, massaging the vaginal walls as the wearer moves. Another variation, the Smart Balls, has the balls encased in high-density, non-porous plastic. This one comes in all the colors of the rainbow and has the many advantages of any other non-porous toy.

[ NOTE: I do not recommend using any version of Ben-Wa balls that does not provide a cord or loop for easy removal. Traditional Ben-Wa balls can be awkward to remove yourself because, although the vagina isn’t all that deep, it is angled enough that deeply-inserted balls can be hard to reach.]

The debate about these things lies in the fact that the stimulation they provide can be very subtle, and some women say they don’t feel anything at all. This doesn’t mean that Ben Wa balls, in whatever form, are not pleasurable. Even if the sensations aren’t powerful, just knowing you’re walking around with a little secret inside can be a tremendous turn-on. Ben-Wa balls have been used throughout their history as a subtle all-day distraction just strong enough to make a woman really anticipate arriving home. Of course having these balls inserted can also greatly add to the pleasure of clitoral stimulation; for some, the internal sensation is delightful on its own. Removing them is as important to their use as wearing them around all day. Try pulling them out slowly at or just after climax to see what I mean.

It’s been years since I last tried Ben Wa balls so, in the name of science, I decided to brush up. Figuring a set of two would be enough, I grabbed a pair of duo-tone balls ($9.95) and with the help of a little lube slipped them into place. I went about my day and although I couldn’t feel any vibrations as such their presence was more than a little pleasurable. Both balls settled just within my vagina and provided a real sense of fullness. The second ball pressed against the opening with a pleasantly firm and insistent sensation. To quote Susie Bright: “almost in/almost out is my preferred method of going insane.” If anyone knows about these things it’s Susie. Of course, she was talking about using large Chinese metal relaxation balls – but most women would really have to work up to that. Ben Wa balls can be titillating or downright enjoyable, and any woman who is interested would find using them a fun experience.

I’ve fielded many questions about these little toys. Will anyone be able to hear them clicking? Won’t they fall out? Will they get lost in my vagina and end up somewhere near my ovaries? The answers in order are No, No, and My god go back to Biology class! Ben Wa balls can be a good introduction for those new to the sex toy world or put off by “The Destroyer.” They’re non-phallic, inexpensive, and an interesting addition to your tickle trunk.

A version of this article appeared in Brink magazine (August 1, 1998).by Shelley Taylor This work is licensed under a Creative Commons License

Cock rings for Femdom play

Many folks equate sex toys with vibrators and vibrators with women. But men enjoy all kinds of sex toys (including vibrators) and one of the staples of their toy box is the cock ring in and out of Femdom play scenes. A great toy for solo or partner play, the cock ring (also known as a penis ring) is a strip of material or a continuous ‘O’ ring designed to restrict the blood from flowing out of the penis, which can prolong an erection.

Why would I want to wear one?

Several reasons!

  • 1) The pressure caused by constriction can be a very pleasurable sensation, and can heighten sensitivity in the penis and testicles, not to mention strengthen and prolong orgasm.
  • 2) Since cock rings constrict the veins that would allow blood to drain out of an erection, some men find that wearing them can make their erections firmer, or even give them a little extra girth.
  • 3) Some men (not all) find they cannot ejaculate while wearing a ring; this can give more ‘staying power’ or a lovely, frustrating tease.
  • 4) They’re pretty! Cockrings present the genitals as an attractive ‘package’ by making them more physically pronounced, as well as having a sexy, aesthetic effect.

Will cock rings make my penis bigger?

Sorry guys, but not in the long run. They may enlarge it temporarily, but repeated use of cock rings won’t result in any permanent changes.

A cock ring is most often used to make an erect penis harder and bigger, to keep it that way for a longer amount of time, and to delay and heighten orgasm. Cock rings work by constricting blood flow, keeping blood in the shaft of the penis. When a wearer finally does ejaculate, the sensation is more intense, since it took a longer time to come, and because the penis is filled with additional blood.

Men use cock rings with partners and/or by themselves. Some are actual rings as their name suggests, made of metal or rubber. Since these cock rings are not adjustable, the right size needs to be chosen for a proper fit. For example, one that fits too tightly could be hard to remove and could cut off circulation in the penis entirely. Metal rings can cause a rash or other skin reactions in some men, so this is something to consider when shopping around. Adjustable cock rings made of rawhide or leather straps are easier for beginners to use since the fit can be changed, and taking them off is more manageable. Avoid using cock ring substitutes; rubber bands, binder clips, and vices, for example, cause too much constriction.

Cock rings fit over the shaft and the testicles/scrotum when a man is not erect. Ball by ball, the testicles go through, then the penis shaft dives in head first through the remaining ring space. The ideal cock ring stays in place when the penis is soft, yet it can fairly easily slip off or unsnap when the penis is hard. Lube can be added to make putting rings on and taking them off a little easier – something that works for finger and toe rings, too.

SIZING

Adult-oriented stores with genital jewelery departments sometimes have fitting rooms where you can try on merchandise. If you’re into advanced planning, you, or your partner, can measure your penile girth, or approximate how many of your fingers bunched together equal the thickness of their fleshy friend. The flexibility of rubber and other elasticized cock rings allows a greater range of fit for more differently endowed men, but they are not one-size-fits-all. Or on the other hand you can use this formula: To find the diameter of a snug-fitting ring, measure the distance around the cock and balls (at the base, behind the scrotum), and then divide by 3.1. Don’t go smaller than that– you don’t want to get stuck.

Safety

For safety and pleasure, a cock ring needs to increase the size of the erection only slightly. If you notice more pronounced swelling, then the fit is too tight. In that case, take the cock ring off immediately. It’s also vital for men to take off their cock ring at the first sign of pain or if the genitals feel cold. In addition, it’s dangerous to leave a ring on for too long, including wearing one to sleep when spontaneous erections are all the rage. An erection of several hours can cause blood coagulation in the penis, making it difficult to lose the erection. This is called priapism, a prolonged erection. Since new blood cannot enter the penis, this can be severely painful and cause permanent damage to the erectile tissue. If this happens to you, seek medical attention as soon as possible, and don’t worry – the staff at the ER has seen this before.

Another place you might want to forgo a cock ring around your penis is the airport. In these high-security times, metal detectors will catch some of these penis-erectors that are tricky to explain and/or remove for closer inspection.

Cautions!

Because they restrict blood flow, cockrings should not be worn for more than 20-30 minutes at a time, as doing so could damage the blood vessels of the penis. Again, the ring should Be snug, not tight. When using metal cockrings, size matters! A too-small ring that fits when you are soft might be painfully tight when you’re erect. In that case, your choices are ejaculation (if you Can), applying ice, or a trip to the emergency room to cut the ring off. Until you have some experience, it’s advisable to use rings that can be taken off quickly and easily.

Pick a Style, Any Style

There are many kinds of cock rings, but if you’re new to cock rings, you’ll want to choose one that’s adjustable and easy to remove.

Cock rings that fasten

Basic leather or nylon cock rings are great for beginners because they’re easy to put on and can be removed in (literally) a snap. Those with snaps can fit a bit more securely, while those with Velcro closures are very adjustable and especially easy to remove.

Continuous, O-ring-style cock rings.

The less expensive styles like the are great for first-time users. They’re not size-specific (and despite their small size, they do stretch a lot), and they’re not too difficult to get on. Some, like the Black Megastretch (http://store.babeland.com/men-cock-rings/black-megastretch-cock-ring), are adorned with small nubs which can give some clitoral stimulation if worn during intercourse.

Vibrating cock rings (http://store.babeland.com/men-couples-vibrating)

These offer an extra buzz to the penis or testicles and are also great fun during partner sex. They’re typically rings with a small vibrating attachment, like the translucent Diamond Ring () vibe or the Sonic Ring Kit (http://store.babeland.com/men-cock-rings/sonic-ring-kit).

Cock rings with fancy features.

Experienced cock ring fans can delight in more complicated leather rings that include multiple straps, testicle separators, or weights, as well as rings made of inflexible materials like aluminium.

Get it on, and then get off!

Prep your gear.

If you’re using a stretchy O-ring, you might want to increase its diameter by putting it over a shampoo bottle for a few hours. Masturbate or fantasize in order to perk up your penis, as cock rings are easier to put on if you’re semi-erect.

Lube up.

Particularly if you’re using a rubber or seamless O-ring, put some lube on your penis and balls, so the cock ring will slide on more comfortably.

Location, location, location.

Cock rings typically are worn around the base of the cock and the balls. You can just wear it on the shaft (and by all means experiment), but cock rings function the most effectively when secured around both the scrotum and cock.

Put cock rings on when you’re semi-erect.

If you’ve got a solid cock ring, first pull the loose skin of your scrotum through, then drop one testicle through, then the other, and finally push your penis through. If you’re using a strip of material that fastens, just gently lift your balls and fasten the strip around the penis and the balls, so it’s resting between your genitals and the rest of your body.

Masturbate.

Once you’ve become accustomed to the sensations your cock ring creates, try masturbating. If your ring is the vibrating type, you can experiment with pointing the vibrating portion on your testicles for an extra buzz.

Make a statement.

Get into the fantasy surrounding your cock ring Whether you’re showing off a festive adornment as part of a striptease, wearing it under your clothes to show off your package, or telling your lover you’re proud to be submissive by wearing a locking cock ring, play up the erotic potential of your toy. Cock rings are fun for silicone dicks, too! Strap a colourful or sexy leather ring on a dildo to dress it up.

Share it with a friend.

Vibrating cock rings were designed to offer female partners clitoral stimulation during intercourse. Position the vibrator near the top of your cock (or the dildo if you’ve got a strap-on) so that during intercourse it bumps up against her clitoris. Keep your body down parallel to hers and try slow, shallow thrusts to make sure she receives consistent contact with the vibrator. Or try it with her on top, moving in more of a grinding than up-and-down motion.

Accessorize.

Cock rings lend themselves well to other sex toy combinations. Try using applying a cock ring and adding a butt plug to your masturbation session.

Get it off.

In general, it’s best to take off your cock ring after about twenty minutes. Pay attention to the penis; it should never turn cold or go numb (clear signs you’ve had the cock ring on too long). To remove a solid O-ring style cock ring, you need to be only semi-erect so the ring is loose enough to feed your dick and balls back through. (Applying ice can help take down a stubborn erection.) Worn to look hot and ready for sex, or just to feel good, cock rings can double your pleasure and create a sexy package-think of them as form and function in one!

Resource Article : MissBonnie © CollarNcuffs.com Imgs: and links from babeland™

(no I am not associated with them and get no kick backs.)

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