Spreader bars are versatile tools commonly used in femdom play to enhance the experience for both parties. They are designed to keep certain body parts spread apart, which can heighten sensations and introduce an element of restraint into the scenario. If you’re new to using a spreader bar, this guide will provide a comprehensive introduction and safety tips.
Choosing the Right Spreader Bar
When selecting a spreader bar, consider the material, length, and adjustability. Spreader bars can be made from various materials such as metal, wood, or plastic. Metal bars tend to be more durable, while wooden and plastic bars can offer more flexibility. Adjustable spreader bars are highly recommended as they can be tailored to fit different scenarios and body types.
Setting Up the Scene
Before incorporating a spreader bar into your play, ensure that all participants are comfortable and aware of the boundaries. Consent and communication are paramount. When you’re ready to begin, securely attach the spreader bar to the submissive’s ankles or wrists, depending on the desired position. Some spreader bars come with cuffs already attached, while others might require separate cuffs or ropes.
Safety and Aftercare
Safety is crucial when using a spreader bar. Make sure to regularly check the cuffs or ropes for tightness to avoid cutting off circulation. It’s also important to have a quick-release method in case of any discomfort or emergency. After the session, engage in aftercare to ensure the submissive is comfortable and attended to, helping to transition smoothly back to everyday life.
Using a spreader bar can greatly enhance femdom play by introducing new dynamics and sensations. With proper communication, preparation, and safety measures, it can be a highly rewarding experience.
(2“ x 6”, 2“ x 4”, 1“ x 4”, 1“ x 2” scrap pieces, etc.)
3/4“ plywood
Table saw
Battery-powered drill
Phillips screwdriver bit
Countersink
2-1/2” decking screws
Finish nails
Clamps
Safety glasses and ear protection
When you custom-build a sawhorse, you can create one with the dimensions and features that best suit your needs. Don’t hesitate to experiment with the dimensions and materials.
Sawhorses may be made from almost any commonly available wood, from scrap lumber to expensive hardwood. The quality of wood should be based on the type of work it will be used for. Ordinary #2 pine is a good choice, but if you plan to use the sawhorses outdoors, choose rot-resistant pressure-treated pine, which is slightly more expensive.
Whenever working with power tools, wear protective eyeglasses and ear protection, and follow all the manufacturer’s safety recommendations. To build a sawhorse like ours, begin by cutting a 2“ by 6” to a length of 36“ for the sawhorse top. Bevel the top board to accommodate the sawhorse’s angled legs. Set your table saw at a 15-degree angle, and cut a slight bevel along the length of the board (figure M)
, then flip it over and do the same on the other side (figure N).
Cut four 32” legs from 2“ by 6” lumber. The legs should then be beveled to 15 degrees on each end–on top so that each leg will be flush with the top piece and on the bottom to give the sawhorse a firm footing (figure O).
Attach the legs to the beveled top with 2-1/2“ decking screws (figure P)
, which have good holding power and won’t rust if they get wet. Use clamps, or enlist the help of an assistant, to hold the legs in place while attaching them. Drill pilot holes so the screws will be less likely to split the wood. Drive the screws by hand or with a power drill and a Phillips-head screwdriver attachment. Attach the legs about 4” from the end of the top piece (figure Q).
Adding a tool shelf and braces makes the sawhorse both sturdier and more functional. A comfortable height for the shelf is around 14“ from the floor. Hold a 1” by 4“ board across the legs at a height of about 14”, and mark it with a pencil (figure R),
indicating how much to cut off and the angle for cutting. Following the pencil marks, cut off the excess wood. Once you’ve made the cut, check to be sure the fit is good (figure S),
then use the piece as a template for the next three braces. Line up the first support with your pencil marks, and clamp it in place at both ends (figure T)
to hold it while you attach it. Drill pilot holes, then secure the support by driving 1-1/2“ screws. Repeat the process for the other braces. Once all four braces are in place, you can add the tool shelf. Cut a piece of plywood that will fit between the legs and rest atop the four braces (figure U) .
Secure the shelf with finish nails. To make the shelf more useful, add a 1” by 2“ lip to two of the sides (figure V)
to prevent tools from vibrating off as you work. Leaving the ends open makes it easy to blow or brush off sawdust that falls onto the shelf. For a more useful work surface, add a top made of 3/4” plywood (figure W).
The width of the top will vary according to its use, but it’s best to make its length the same as that of the sawhorse so the top is supported at both ends. In this example, the plywood is cut to 9“ by 36”, leaving a small overhang on the sides. Attach the top with screws, which hold better than nails and make it easy to replace the top if necessary. Countersinking the screws so that their heads are below the wood’s surface will prevent them from scratching your submissive. To countersink the screws, first drill pilot holes for each screw. Then use a countersink,or a larger drill bit to cut an indentation in which the screw head will fit. (figure X)
Customize your sawhorse as needed–wrapping the top in carpeting or padded leather/material for use with delicate subbies, or adding attachments to hold frequently used tools.
You can be like the cat that got the cream with this rubber Cat-O-Nine-Tails. The cat-o-nine tails is a type of multi-tailed whipping device that originated as an implement for severe physical punishment, notably in the British Royal Navy.
To make the rubber flogger you will need…
A piece of wooden doweling ? a section of broom handle is idea and inexpensive
a cycle inner tube
rubber cement and some elastic bands.
First cut a piece of doweling to 14cm in length. Sand the end to get rid of any rough edges.
Cut a length of inner tube to 53cms, avoiding writing on the rubber. Then cut a straight line length-ways down the tube and open it out to a rectangle.
Cover the first 15cm of the rubber, (on the inside) with rubber cement. Place the piece of dowel onto the glued up rubber and hold it firm whilst it starts to stick. Then slowly roll the dowel along, rolling it up in the rubber. The other side of the rubber rectangle should overlap onto the first side.
Leave a small amount of overhanging rubber off the end of the dowel. This can be cut to size later once the glue is dry.
Wipe away any excess glue with a damp cloth.
Hold the rubber in place on the dowel by fixing a couple of elastic bands around to hold everything securely in place whilst the glue dries.
After a good 20 minutes or so, remove the elastic bands.
Re-apply glue to any edges that have not suck down properly the first time, and again hold everything in place with elastic bands. Leave overnight until all the glue had dried. In the morning remove the elastic bands, clean any excess glue away, and trim the overhanging rubber on the handle of the flogger.
At the other end of the flogger where there is a long surplus of rubber, carefully cut the rubber length ways towards the handle to create tails. The rubber easily cuts with a sharp pair of scissors. Either cut chunky tails or skinny tails. If you do cut thinner tails you can add to the pain by tying a small knot at the tip of each tail, great for really naughty slaves.
Understanding Rope Web for Bondage: A Beginner’s Guide
What is a Rope Web for Bondage?
A rope web is an intricate network of ropes used in bondage practices to create visually stunning and secure patterns on a person’s body. It often serves both aesthetic and functional purposes in the realm of BDSM. The complexity of the design can range from simple to elaborate, providing a diverse experience for both the dominant and submissive participants.
Benefits of Using a Rope Web
Using a rope web for bondage offers multiple benefits. Firstly, it enhances the physical connection and trust between the partners. Secondly, the visual appeal of a well-constructed rope web adds to the overall sensual atmosphere. Additionally, the varied pressure points created by the rope can enhance sensory experiences, providing unique physical sensations.
How to Use a Rope Web for Bondage
To successfully use a rope web, start by choosing a sturdy and soft rope to avoid injury. Begin with basic knots and gradually progress to more elaborate patterns as you become more comfortable. Communication with your partner is crucial; always ensure that there is mutual consent and a safe word in place. Practice caution and never leave a person unattended while they are bound.
There are several tutorials and guides available online that can assist beginners in learning the art of creating rope webs/ Below is just one. Joining local workshops or online communities can also provide valuable insights and feedback.
Creating Unique Femdom Scenes with a Handcrafted Rope Blindfold
Introduction to Femdom and Sensory Deprivation
In the world of BDSM, sensory deprivation can significantly enhance the overall experience. One way to add a special touch to your femdom scenes is by integrating a handcrafted rope blindfold. This unique accessory not only looks aesthetically pleasing but also deepens the submissive’s sensory adventure.
Why Choose a Rope Blindfold?
A rope blindfold offers several benefits over traditional blindfolds. It allows for a customizable fit, ensuring that it is secure but comfortable. The texture of the rope can add an extra layer of sensation, taking the submissive’s experience to a new level. Moreover, because it’s handcrafted, you can personalize it to suit your specific dynamic.
Creating Your Own Rope Blindfold
Making your own rope blindfold is simpler than it might seem. First, you’ll need a soft but durable rope material, typically cotton or silk. Measure the circumference of the submissive’s head and add a few extra inches for tying. Weave or braid the rope for added texture and visual appeal. Finally, tie knots at the ends to secure it safely behind the head without causing discomfort.
Incorporating the Blindfold into Your Scene
Now that you have your handcrafted rope blindfold, it’s time to incorporate it into your femdom scene. Communication is key: Ensure that both parties are aware of boundaries and safe words. The blindfold can be used at various points during play to heighten anticipation and make the experience more immersive. Always monitor the submissive’s comfort level to ensure a safe and enjoyable session.
Conclusion
Handcrafted rope blindfolds are an excellent addition to any femdom scene. They offer a blend of aesthetic appeal, functionality, and personalization that traditional blindfolds simply can’t match. By taking the time to make one, you are not only enhancing your scenes but also investing in the unique bond you share with your partner.
Making a rope Bit Gag. I loved finding this instructional video on how to create a rope bit gag. I loved that I could create a rope set with the flogger, leashes and collar and blindfold etc. for play (Video Tutorial) we’ve got them all in the resources here!
Crafting a Rope Bit Gag for Femdom Play
Why Personalize Your Bondage Gear?
In the world of BDSM and femdom play, personalizing your equipment can add a unique and intimate touch to your sessions. A handcrafted bit gag is not only a functional piece of gear but also a symbol of care and attention to detail. Producing your own bondage items can enhance the overall experience by allowing you to customize both the aesthetic and the size to suit your needs.
Ensuring Safety and Comfort
Always consider safety and comfort when using homemade bondage equipment. Test the bit gag gently to ensure there are no sharp edges or uncomfortable pressures. Communication with your partner is crucial for a safe and pleasurable experience. Adjust as needed to ensure a secure yet comfortable fit.
By crafting your own bit gag, you imbue it with a personalized touch that can make your sessions more meaningful and enjoyable.
Canes have a sweet, sharp bite and are one of the most intense striking toys in BDSM Femdom. But most people would be surprised how easy and inexpensive they are to make. Here’s our process for making rattan canes. Although many people think canes are made out of bamboo, most BDSM folk use canes made from rattan. Bamboo can split into sharp splinters. Rattan is a reed that grows in China and Indonesia. It is relatively easy to find, because it is used to make furniture. Check your local Yellow Pages for furniture-making or caning supply stores. If you don’t have any nearby, you can order rattan over the Internet as well
canes
Traditional canes are made of rattan, a woody reed from the East Indies. It has a jointed stem that resembles bamboo, but is not hollow. Rattan is very tough and strong, and makes the most durable natural canes we know. Like bamboo, it comes in all sorts of diameters; traditional canes are about 8mm, but thicker and thinner ones are also useful. Rattan can sometimes be found at craft stores or Oriental basketwork shops. It is used to make wicker furniture, so a repairer of that might have a stock of it as well. Unfortunately, most of the cane-sized rattan that comes into this country (Australia) has been bent into coils, which warps and sometimes cracks it.
If you must deal with the coiled stuff, it should first be cut to length with a fine-toothed saw. Coping saws and hacksaws work well. A dressmaker’s tape is a handy way to measure along the coils. Obviously, you should discard cracked peices. Less obviously, your canes will be much more durable if the tip includes one of the joints of the stem. The convoluted grain in each joint resists splitting, as opposed to the very straight grain that runs for the foot or so between joints. A lot of the coiled rattan has been peeled and sanded, but the joints are still noticeable if you look and feel carefully. Cut the stem about a stem diameter to one side of the joint; this will become the tip of the cane. (The ends without joints included are fine for handles – the tips are what take the shock and strain.)
You can make the canes any length you like; People have different preferences when it comes to cane lengths. Remember that the longer the cane, the more whippy (and hard to control) I prefer 20-30 inches (50-80cm) as they are easier to aim and more convenient in close quarters. Long ones have more power, but can be awkward. The natural variations in your coil will probably give you several choices.
You can also cut the rattan to make double canes. A double cane is a length of rattan that has been bent back on itself, to make what looks something like a snowshoe frame or loop. These canes fit nicely onto a buttock, and are easier to transport. To make double canes, carefully bend the rattan back on itself, tie it in position, and soak it again. It may take multiple times of bending, tying, and soaking to get the shape you want. Don’t try to force the rattan to bend farther than it wants to, or you will end up with a kink–and not the good kind!
You can also bend just one end to make a shape similar to a walking or candy cane. We find this shape to be less practical, but some submissives strongly identify “cane” with this shape, so we always make a few of these. Rattan is sized via a number system. We find that sizes between 10 and 15 are most useful; to start with, I recommend ordering size 12, which is 3/8 inch or 9 mm in diameter. This will make a whippy cane with enough strength to stand up to fairly heavy use. Each tip needs to be rounded off; any kind of edge here will break skin far too easily. Coarse sandpaper works well, especially in a power sander of some kind. Hand sanding will also do, as will a fairly coarse metal file. Whatever you use, try for a smoothly rounded end. Now hand-sand the whole length of each cane with medium paper; try to remove the stray fibers you find sticking up from the wood. They are a nuisance during varnishing.
The cut pieces will have to be soaked and steamed to straighten them without breaking. We soak ours in the bathtub for a day or two, but any water will do. Don’t let them dry out. After soaking comes steaming and straightening. You will need some way of keeping the canes straight as they dry; we lay them in a series of grooves we routed into a plank, and then clamp another plank on top of them. You can also try shoving each one down a length of pipe; plastic water pipe won’t rust and stain the canes. (even come with screw on plastic caps)
When you have your straightening rig set up, boil a big kettle of water. Wrap the canes in a towel or two, lay them in the (drained) tub and pour some boiling water over them. Dose them every minute or so for a few minutes, and then unwrap them; the scalding will make them limp and easy to uncurl. (Dishwashing gloves help keep your fingers from scalding, too.) Quickly, before they can cool, bend them straight and put them in the jig. Put the jig in a dry place with good ventilation for five days Remove the canes and hang them up for air drying; we use clothespins/pegs on cords. Let the canes dry for a few days until they feel dry to the touch, but still whippy. The key to a useful, long-lasting cane is to preserve a bit of moisture inside. Once a cane is completely dried out, it will become brittle.
After a few days of air drying, brush them thoroughly with a coat marine varnish. Regular varnish is too stiff for canes–it tends to flake off after a while. Marine varnish is flexible and will completely seal the cane. Check boating supply stores or order it off the Web: Give each cane at least three coats; let each coat dry enough that you can sand off any lumps. Some newspapers on the floor under them will be a good ideas, since at least one of them will drip no matter how careful you are.
The handle end of each cane can be left as is, or a grip can be added for comfort or appearance. You can dip the handle ends in plastic tool dip – it will take several coats, and you can hang them from the same setup you used in the varnishing. The fumes of this stuff are truly nasty; be sure you have good ventilation. Less toxically, you can wrap the grips with cord or leather lacing, sew a scrap of leather or cloth around them, or cover them with tape. Bicycle handlebar tape makes a fine grip.
You can of course prepare other kinds of wooden rods this way – and avoid all the straightening hassle by picking ones that are straight to begin with. Bamboo is cheap and widely available, and also stiffer than rattan, which makes aiming easier. Bamboo, of course, is hollow and the tip must be made at a joint, just as described for rattan. Bamboo works fine for light to medium blows; heavy blows with it can be dangerous. Bamboo can split without warning, and the splits have edges like razors! Hardwood dowels from the hardware store can have the same problems. Avoid either of these materials for heavy canings.
Many other plants have canelike shoots. Forsythia is a very popular ornamental, and the older branches from the inside of the bush can make quite a reasonable cane. Prepare as you would rattan. They aren’t as durable, but the price is right, especially if rattan is hard to buy where you live. Apple trees develop suckers each year, especially upward from the top branches. These grow straight, to about the right length, and are pruned off in great numbers every year. They are quite tough and durable. The buds make rough little bumps along the shoot; they can be sanded off if they seem too harsh.
Some twigs, such as birch or willow, are fine for scenes but far too flexible to be considered or used as canes. Handling them is a whole different topic.
There are also synthetic canes, mostly plastics. Plastics are much denser than wood, so they hit harder and the stroke is more penetrating. They are very easy to clean, which is a good thing because the thinner ones break skin quite easily. There are shops in most large and medium cities that sell plastic supplies. There can be a confusing variety of materials there: Delrin, Lexan, and fiberglass are three kinds of rod that are tough enough to make good canes. Acrylic is not tough enough; I have broken several. If the clear look appeals to you, get Lexan. Sora, from San Francisco, makes some very nice Lexan canes, if you want to buy ready-made. If you prepare your own, you won’t need to varnish them, but be sure to remember to round and smooth the tip!
MissBitch & MissBonnie Hints and tips
we recently found a source of rattan by the devious method of trying the yellow pages. Now we where able to make 10 straight canes for the huge sum of $4.60. We think others in fairly large cities may well have equal success if they look, why fool around with dowels or garden stakes when the real thing is cheaper?
Indeed. When buying rattan, however, you can’t simply say, “Oh, I bought thirty feet, that means I can make ten canes!” Rattan has warps and knots and such in it. When we’re cutting canes, we probably discard about 50% of the raw material in order to get something that really balances well.
If you’re going to stain and varnish it – and there’s a lot of disagreement about whether canes should be coated – you can use pretty much any wood stain to stain it with. We finish ours with marine varnish, which takes a lot of work – it’s messy stuff, and it needs to dry overnight. Since we usually do about six coats of varnish, a cane isn’t exactly a quick-and-dirty toy for us. Polyurethane is much quicker because it’s fast-drying, but all polyurethane finishes have something of a tendency to flake, and this is really exacerbated when you’re dealing with a flexible cane. Be sure to have all your sanding done before you stain and varnish, and round the striking tip as well.
As noted before, marine varnish provides excellent sealing properties while maintaining flexibility. You will usually want to apply ‘at least’ two coats. We do each coat in two parts, so there is always a dry portion of the cane to attach the hanging string to. If you are only going to use the cane on one person, you can choose not to use varnish–but you will need to re-soak the cane frequently to maintain its moisture level. Varnishing seals in the moisture and provides a barrier to body fluids–rattan, as with all woods, is porous.
At this point, all you need is a willing submissive to try your new canes out on. Have fun!
A Shrew’s fiddle is a variation of a yoke or rigid irons whereby the wrists are locked in front of the bound person by a hinged board or steel bar. The name Shrew’s fiddle derives from the fact that if the device is made from wood it can be shaped to look like a violin. You can find building instructions in our resources
Yokes are bondage devices which hold the captive’s wrists a fixed distance either side of the neck. They are sometimes constructed of wood (similar to the traditional milk-maid’s yoke) but are more readily available in steel – for example as part of Fetters’s range of pre-19th century irons.
The stocks were originally a device used for public humiliation, punishment, and torture in the middle ages. The stocks are similar to the pillory and the pranger, as both consist of large, hinged, wooden boards. The difference is that in the stocks, the boards are placed around the legs or the wrists, whereas in the pillory they are placed around the arms and neck. However, the terms can be confused and many people refer to the pillory as the stocks.
In the stocks, an offender’s ankles would be placed and locked through two holes in the center of the board. Either before or after this the offender would have his shoes and socks removed, exposing his bare feet. Typically, a person confined to the stocks would be subjected to a variety of abuses, ranging from paddling and tickling of the feet to being stoned to death.
Stocks are used occasionally in bondage scenes but the position that the stocks hold the submissive makes it more difficult to punish or sexually “abuse” the slave than other more common bondage positions. To get around this problem it is possible to buy stocks specially designed for BDSM play which expose the captive in a much more sexual manner.
Box stocks are a variation on the basic stocks design. They consist of a floor-standing box which has holes for the wrists and ankles. The captive is forced to stand upright bending over with their hands on the floor. This puts them in an ideal position for spanking, flogging, and caning.
The hunched-over position that the stocks forces on its captive can become uncomfortable after a time. The position might also cause some victims to faint; this can be dangerous as should the captive fall, they could break a wrist or ankle.
A piece of furniture that is specifically designed to make for it easier for the Femdom Domme to do the spanking. Various designs all allow for maximum access to the posterior region.
Another feature can be restraints, so as to tie down the spankee in case the pain would cause him to move by reflex.
The standard spanking bench is very much like a trestle table or a small gymnasium-horse, the recipient being bent over with their bottom thus exposed. Modern variations allow for a kneeling on all fours type position.
The term caning bench is used when the spanker intends to apply the spankings by cane.
